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Comment prendre soin de vos outils à glace

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Comment prendre soin de vos outils à glace

Quel que soit votre niveau, prendre soin de votre matériel (très coûteux !) est primordial pour passer un bon moment en montagne en toute sécurité. De la rouille aux pics émoussés, voici un petit guide pour entretenir vos piolets.

L'hiver est là, et avec lui, l'escalade sur glace. Ici, dans la vallée de la Bow, nous proposons des voies d'escalade sur glace parmi les mieux notées, les plus régulières et, à mon avis, les plus amusantes. Des classiques comme Moonlight (WI4), Hydrophobia (WI5) et Cascade Falls (WI3-R), aux zones d'escalade pour débutants comme Haffner Creek et Bear Spirit, la vallée de la Bow a de quoi satisfaire tous les niveaux de grimpeurs sur glace.

Quel que soit votre niveau, prendre soin de votre matériel (très coûteux !) est primordial pour passer un bon moment en montagne en toute sécurité. La principale différence entre le matériel de glace et de drytooling et celui de roche réside dans le fait qu'il est rarement fabriqué en nylon ; les piolets à glace sont généralement en plastique, en aluminium, en acier et parfois même en fibre de carbone. Ces matériaux plus résistants présentent des difficultés d'entretien, la rouille étant le principal problème.

Pour traiter la rouille, plusieurs solutions s'offrent à vous, selon son intensité. Tout d'abord, si des écailles de rouille, semblables à celles d'une très vieille voiture, menacent l'intégrité de l'outil, mettez-le au rebut et recyclez-le. Ou, mieux encore, accrochez-le au manteau de la cheminée et racontez à vos invités la fois où vous et votre ami avez failli mourir, sauf que cet outil vous a rattrapés et vous a sortis de la crevasse. Alors, faisait-il -40 degrés Celsius cette nuit-là, ou -45 ?

Si la rouille est minime, un bon récurage à la brosse métallique devrait suffire à éliminer la rouille superficielle. Ensuite, vous devrez probablement affûter votre outil avec une lime à simple denture, généralement pas plus grossière que la deuxième denture (moyenne). Il existe deux façons d'affûter vos pics et crampons, selon le type de mouvement souhaité. Des angles plus aigus, plus étroits et plus prononcés à la pointe permettent une meilleure pénétration dans la glace, mais s'usent plus rapidement. Des angles plus plats, plus larges et moins prononcés à la pointe nécessitent plus d'habileté pour pénétrer la glace, mais durent plus longtemps, surtout si vous pratiquez l'escalade mixte sur rocher et sur glace. Si vous n'utilisez pas vos outils plusieurs fois par semaine, une légère couche d'huile ou de graisse silicone permet d'éviter l'accumulation de rouille superficielle entre deux utilisations.

Vous avez passé toute la saison à chasser la glace et (surtout cette année) vous avez passé un excellent moment avec des condies bien épais et un risque d'avalanche minimal. Bientôt, le printemps approche, la glace fond et la roche vous appelle. Idéalement, vous avez entretenu votre matériel avec soin tout au long de la saison ; un contrôle antirouille et une application d'huile en fin de saison devraient donc être une pratique courante. Pour maintenir vos outils en bon état de fonctionnement pour les saisons à venir, il est essentiel de desserrer légèrement tous les boulons, rondelles, écrous et vis. En desserrant les pièces de vos outils, vous minimisez le risque de grippage des éléments de connexion, ce qui compliquerait considérablement l'entretien régulier ou le remplacement des pièces. Cela vous permet également de mieux voir et d'utiliser l'outil, et de vous assurer que toutes les pièces concernées ont été grattées et huilées avant le stockage de fin de saison.

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Seasonal Climbing Gear: Transitioning from Rock to Ice and Mixed Climbing

Seasonal Climbing Gear: Transitioning from Rock to Ice and Mixed Climbing

As the seasons change, so do the challenges and gear requirements of climbing. Transitioning from rock climbing in warmer months to ice or mixed climbing in winter requires careful planning, the right equipment, and an understanding of how to adapt your climbing techniques. At Vertical Addiction, we provide climbers with a full range of seasonal gear and expert advice to ensure safety and performance in all conditions. This guide will help you build a complete seasonal setup, from harnesses and ropes to protection and accessories, and prepare you for the unique demands of ice and mixed climbing. Understanding Seasonal Climbing Transitions The transition from rock to ice climbing is not just about colder temperatures—it’s about the terrain, gear requirements, and risk factors. Rock climbing: Focuses on friction, route navigation, and dynamic movement. Gear is optimized for bolts, anchors, and climbing walls. Ice climbing: Involves vertical or near-vertical ice surfaces, requiring specialized tools, crampons, and ice-specific protection. Mixed climbing: Combines rock, ice, and snow, requiring a versatile rack and advanced techniques for secure climbing. Understanding these differences is critical to selecting the right equipment and building a safe climbing system. Seasonal Gear Essentials 1. Harnesses A reliable harness is the foundation for any climb. For winter and mixed climbs, consider a harness that provides comfort under layers and can carry extra gear. Shop our full harness collection for sport, trad, and alpine models. Tips: Lightweight sport harnesses are suitable for gym and rock climbs. Padded all-day harnesses with multiple gear loops are ideal for ice and mixed climbing where extended hangs and heavy loads are common. 2. Belay Devices & Accessories Belaying on ice and mixed terrain requires smooth operation and control. Our belay devices and belay accessories include assisted-braking devices and tube-style options suitable for various rope diameters, making them ideal for seasonal transitions. Must-have: Locking carabiners compatible with your belay device. Gloves or belay mitts to protect hands from cold while maintaining control. 3. Carabiners & Quickdraws Versatility is key when moving from rock to ice or mixed routes. Lightweight carabiners and quickdraws work for both sport and alpine anchors, while locking carabiners are essential for secure ice or mixed belays. Pro Tip: Keep extra carabiners for building complex anchors in multi-pitch winter climbs. 4. Ropes & Rope Bags Rope choice is critical when temperatures drop. A dynamic rope remains essential for catching falls, while a static rope may be used for rappels and hauling. Protect your rope from snow, ice, and abrasion with a rope bag. Reference: For more on rope selection and care, see Climbing Rope Care and Selection: Dynamic vs. Static, Diameter, and Length Considerations. 5. Protection Gear Seasonal climbing often requires a wider variety of protection: Rock protection: Nuts, cams, and bolts for traditional routes. Ice protection: Ice screws and anchors specifically designed for frozen terrain. Mixed climbing: Combination of rock and ice gear for variable conditions. Browse our protection gear to assemble a comprehensive seasonal rack. 6. Helmets Protect your head from falling ice, rocks, and gear with a durable climbing helmet. Ventilation and fit are important, especially when wearing extra layers or winter hats underneath. 7. Ascenders, Descenders & Pulleys Ice and mixed climbing often involve complex rope systems for hauling and rappelling. Our ascenders, descenders, and pulleys ensure smooth rope management and safety in challenging conditions. 8. Slings & Webbing Slings and webbing are essential for anchor building, extending protection, and reducing rope drag. For seasonal climbs, they can help bridge rock and ice protection points. Check out our slings and webbing collection for versatile options. 9. Chalk & Chalk Bags Maintaining grip on cold, wet, or mixed terrain can be difficult. Use chalk and chalk bags to keep hands dry and improve control. While ice climbing relies more on tools than friction, rock sections in mixed climbs benefit from chalk. 10. Rock Climbing Accessories Brushes, nut tools, tape, and other rock climbing accessories become critical when transitioning routes or cleaning gear during seasonal climbs. 11. Training Gear Off-season training ensures that your strength and endurance remain high for ice and mixed climbing. Shop our training equipment for hangboards, grip trainers, and finger strength tools. Adapting Your Rack for Seasonal Climbing Transitioning from rock to ice or mixed routes often requires updating your rack: Add ice screws, technical cams, and specialized anchors for frozen terrain. Include slings and webbing to extend placements in variable conditions. Ensure ropes and belay devices are compatible with cold weather operations. For guidance on building a complete rack, see Complete Climbing Gear Guide: Building Your First Rack for Sport vs. Trad Climbing. Tips for Seasonal Safety Layer appropriately: Wear moisture-wicking and insulating layers to stay warm without restricting movement. Check gear compatibility: Cold weather can affect rope handling, belay devices, and protection placements. Inspect ice and snow conditions: Understand seasonal hazards such as icefall, avalanches, and unstable mixed terrain. Plan for redundancy: Bring extra protection, ropes, and slings to mitigate risk in complex winter routes. Storing and Caring for Gear During Seasonal Transitions Seasonal changes require extra attention to gear maintenance: Ropes: Store ropes dry and out of direct sunlight; inspect frequently for fraying or core damage. Hardware: Keep carabiners, cams, and protection free from rust or ice buildup. Harnesses and slings: Wash and dry properly to maintain strength and flexibility. Proper maintenance ensures your gear is ready for both summer and winter climbs. Shopping Seasonal Climbing Gear at Vertical Addiction At Vertical Addiction, we stock a full range of seasonal climbing gear to help you transition seamlessly from rock to ice or mixed routes: Harnesses Belay Devices & Accessories Carabiners & Quickdraws Ropes & Rope Bags Protection Gear Helmets Ascenders, Descenders & Pulleys Slings & Webbing Chalk & Chalk Bags Rock Climbing Accessories Training Gear No matter your climbing style or seasonal objective, Vertical Addiction provides gear that is reliable, durable, and suited for extreme conditions. Final Thoughts Transitioning from rock climbing to ice and mixed climbing requires thoughtful gear selection, proper preparation, and attention to safety. By adapting your rack with the right protection, ropes, and hardware, you can tackle challenging seasonal routes confidently. For more detailed guidance, check out our other posts: Complete Climbing Gear Guide: Building Your First Rack for Sport vs. Trad Climbing and Climbing Rope Care and Selection: Dynamic vs. Static, Diameter, and Length Considerations. With the right seasonal gear from Vertical Addiction, you’ll be prepared to climb safely, efficiently, and confidently all year long.  

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Climbing Rope Care and Selection: Dynamic vs. Static, Diameter, and Length Considerations

Climbing Rope Care and Selection: Dynamic vs. Static, Diameter, and Length Considerations

Selecting the right climbing rope and caring for it properly is essential for safety, performance, and longevity on the wall. Whether you’re a sport climber, trad climber, or preparing for alpine adventures, understanding dynamic vs. static ropes, choosing the correct diameter and length, and following proper rope care practices will help you climb with confidence. At Vertical Addiction, we carry a wide range of ropes and climbing gear to suit every climber’s needs. Understanding Dynamic vs. Static Ropes One of the first decisions in rope selection is choosing between dynamic and static ropes. Dynamic ropes are designed to stretch under load, absorbing the impact of a fall. They are essential for lead climbing, sport routes, and trad climbing where falls are possible. Static ropes have minimal stretch and are ideal for rappelling, hauling gear, caving, or rescue scenarios. They are not recommended for lead climbing because they do not absorb impact forces. For most climbers building a first rack, a dynamic single rope is the standard choice. Pair it with a reliable harness and belay device for a complete safety system. Choosing the Right Diameter The diameter of a rope affects its handling, durability, and performance: Thin ropes (8.5–9.5mm): Lightweight and ideal for sport climbing or alpine routes where every gram counts. These ropes are easier to carry but may wear faster and be less durable. Mid-range ropes (9.6–10.2mm): A versatile choice suitable for both sport and trad climbing. They balance durability and handling. Thicker ropes (10.5–11mm): Extremely durable, ideal for heavy use in gyms or multi-pitch trad climbing where abrasion is common. Selecting the correct diameter also affects compatibility with your belay device and carabiners, so always check manufacturer recommendations. Selecting the Right Length Rope length is another crucial factor. Common lengths include 60m, 70m, and 80m, though shorter or longer options exist: 60m ropes: Common for sport climbing and single-pitch routes. Lightweight and easy to handle. 70m ropes: Offer extra length for longer routes or multi-pitch climbs. Popular in both sport and trad settings. 80m+ ropes: Required for longer multi-pitch or alpine climbs. Consider handling and weight when carrying. Your rope choice should match the route lengths in your local area or climbing objectives. Pair your rope with a durable rope bag to protect it from dirt, abrasion, and UV exposure. Rope Care Essentials Proper rope care extends its life and keeps you safe: Avoid sharp edges and abrasive surfaces: Protect your rope from rock edges and rough surfaces whenever possible. Use rope protectors or pads. Store ropes properly: Keep ropes in a dry, cool place away from direct sunlight. Avoid storing them in damp or dirty environments. Clean ropes when necessary: Use lukewarm water and a mild detergent, avoiding harsh chemicals. Rinse thoroughly and air-dry in the shade. Inspect before every climb: Check for frays, cuts, soft spots, or core damage. Replace ropes immediately if any damage is found. Avoid chemical exposure: Keep ropes away from acids, solvents, and other chemicals that weaken fibers. For a deeper dive into proper maintenance and rope longevity, check out our guides on Complete Climbing Gear Guide: Building Your First Rack for Sport vs. Trad Climbing and Seasonal Climbing Gear: Transitioning from Rock to Ice and Mixed Climbing. Rope Systems: Single, Half, and Twin Climbers can choose between different rope systems depending on their climbing style: Single ropes: Used alone and ideal for sport and trad climbing on single-pitch or multi-pitch routes. Half ropes (double ropes): Paired ropes clipped alternately into protection. Useful for wandering routes, multi-pitch climbs, and reducing rope drag. Twin ropes: Both ropes are clipped into every piece of protection. Provide redundancy and are commonly used in alpine or ice climbing. Your rope system choice will influence the rest of your rack, including protection gear, slings and webbing, and ascenders/descenders. Complementary Gear for Your Rope Setup A rope is only as effective as the system around it. Consider pairing your rope with these essential climbing items: Harnesses: Ensure proper fit and comfort for long climbs. See our harness collection. Belay devices: Choose compatible devices from our belay device and accessories category. Carabiners and quickdraws: Essential for clipping and building anchors. Shop carabiners & quickdraws. Helmets: Protect yourself from falling debris with climbing helmets. Chalk and chalk bags: Maintain grip and control with our chalk & chalk bags. Rock climbing accessories: Brushes, nut tools, and other essentials are available in rock climbing accessories. 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Mixed climbing: Longer ropes, combined with slings and protection gear, help navigate varied terrain safely. For a detailed guide, read our post on Seasonal Climbing Gear: Transitioning from Rock to Ice and Mixed Climbing. Shopping Rope and Climbing Gear at Vertical Addiction At Vertical Addiction, we offer a full selection of climbing ropes, rope bags, and complementary gear for all types of climbing. Whether you’re building your first rack, upgrading your rope setup, or preparing for multi-pitch adventures, our curated collection ensures you’ll find the right products: Ropes & Rope Bags Harnesses Belay Devices & Accessories Carabiners & Quickdraws Protection Gear Helmets Ascenders, Descenders & Pulleys Slings & Webbing Chalk & Chalk Bags Rock Climbing Accessories Training Gear Final Thoughts Choosing the right climbing rope and maintaining it properly is one of the most important aspects of climbing safety. By understanding dynamic vs. static ropes, selecting the correct diameter and length, and caring for your rope with proper storage and inspection, you ensure both safety and longevity. Combine your rope with high-quality harnesses, belay devices, protection, and other essential gear to build a complete system you can trust. For more guidance on building your climbing rack and seasonal gear considerations, check out our posts on Complete Climbing Gear Guide: Building Your First Rack for Sport vs. Trad Climbing and Seasonal Climbing Gear: Transitioning from Rock to Ice and Mixed Climbing. With the right rope and equipment from Vertical Addiction, you’ll be ready to tackle your next climb safely, efficiently, and confidently.

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Complete Climbing Gear Guide: Building Your First Rack for Sport vs. Trad Climbing

Complete Climbing Gear Guide: Building Your First Rack for Sport vs. Trad Climbing

Whether you’re just stepping onto the rock for the first time or looking to expand your climbing arsenal, building your first rack is a critical step in ensuring safety, performance, and confidence on the wall. At Vertical Addiction, we’ve put together this complete guide to help climbers choose the right gear for sport climbing and trad climbing, including everything from harnesses and ropes to protection and accessories. Understanding Sport vs. Trad Climbing Before you start buying gear, it’s important to understand the differences between sport climbing and traditional (trad) climbing: Sport climbing relies on pre-placed bolts for protection. The focus is on athletic movement and challenging routes rather than placing gear. Trad climbing requires climbers to place their own protection in cracks and natural features. This style demands a more extensive rack with versatile gear options. Knowing your climbing style will help you prioritize the right equipment and avoid unnecessary purchases. Essential Gear for Your First Rack Here’s a breakdown of the essential gear you’ll need, organized by category, with links to shop directly at Vertical Addiction. 1. Harnesses A reliable harness is the foundation of any climbing setup. For both sport and trad climbing, look for a comfortable harness that fits well, offers multiple gear loops, and supports long days on the wall. Check out our full selection of climbing harnesses. Tips: Sport climbers may prefer lightweight harnesses with minimal padding. Trad climbers should prioritize harnesses with additional gear loops and comfort for extended periods on vertical terrain. 2. Belay Devices & Accessories Your belay device is essential for safe rope management. Sport climbing often uses assisted-braking devices for quick and efficient belaying, while trad climbing may benefit from versatile tube-style devices for a variety of rope diameters. Browse our collection of belay devices and belay accessories. Must-have accessories: Locking carabiners for belay Belay gloves (optional for longer pitches) 3. Carabiners & Quickdraws For sport climbers, a set of durable quickdraws and carabiners is crucial. Quickdraws clip into bolts for smooth clipping during leads. Trad climbers will need a mix of locking and non-locking carabiners for anchors, protection placement, and belay setups. Pro Tip: Always have a few extra carabiners for building anchors and extending gear placements. 4. Ropes & Rope Bags Your rope is your lifeline. Sport climbers typically use dynamic ropes in the 9-10mm range for single-pitch routes, while trad climbers might require a slightly thicker rope for durability over multiple pitches. Check out our ropes and rope bags selection to keep your rope protected and organized. Helpful Guide: Read our blog on Climbing Rope Care and Selection: Dynamic vs. Static, Diameter, and Length Considerations to make the best choice for your climbing style. 5. Protection Gear Protection is where sport and trad diverge significantly: Sport climbers primarily rely on bolts, so minimal additional protection is needed. Trad climbers need cams, nuts, and hexes to place in cracks and build secure anchors. Explore our full protection gear lineup to build a comprehensive trad rack. Tip: Start with a basic set of cams and nuts in the sizes most common for your local climbing area, then expand as needed. 6. Helmets Climbing helmets are non-negotiable for safety. Whether you’re sport or trad climbing, a lightweight, well-ventilated helmet is essential to protect against falling rocks and gear. Browse our range of climbing helmets. 7. Ascenders, Descenders & Pulleys While not necessary for all sport routes, these tools become important for trad, multi-pitch, or alpine climbing. Check out our ascenders, descenders, and pulleys for rope management and hauling systems. 8. Slings & Webbing Slings and webbing are essential for anchors, extending protection, and creating equalized setups. Trad climbers, in particular, should invest in a variety of lengths. Explore our slings and webbing for all your climbing needs. 9. Chalk & Chalk Bags Maintain grip with high-quality chalk and convenient chalk bags. Sport climbers may favor chalk bags for frequent clipping movements, while trad climbers often need a larger capacity for multi-pitch routes. 10. Rock Climbing Accessories Small accessories can make a big difference. Brushes, tape, nut tools, and gear storage are key items to add to your rack. Shop rock climbing accessories to complete your setup. 11. Training Gear Climbing off the wall is just as important. Improve strength, endurance, and grip with training equipment, including hangboards, grip trainers, and finger strength tools. Tips for Building Your First Rack Start small: Focus on essentials first, then expand as your skills and climbing experience grow. Prioritize safety: Quality over quantity. Invest in trusted brands and durable gear. Organize by use: Keep sport gear separate from trad gear for efficiency on the wall. Check local guidebooks: Understand typical gear placements in your climbing area to guide your purchases. Seasonal Considerations Climbing gear needs can change with the season. Transitioning from rock to ice or mixed climbing may require additional equipment, such as ice tools, crampons, and winter-specific protection. Read our guide on Seasonal Climbing Gear: Transitioning from Rock to Ice and Mixed Climbing to plan your rack for year-round adventures. Why Shop Your Climbing Rack at Vertical Addiction? When you shop at Vertical Addiction, you get: Trusted climbing brands selected by experienced climbers Expert advice to build your rack efficiently Fast shipping across the US Comprehensive selection, from harnesses to ropes, protection, and accessories Whether you’re building a sport rack for the gym and local crags or a full trad rack for multi-pitch adventures, we have everything you need to climb confidently. Next Steps Start building your climbing rack today: Harnesses Belay Devices & Accessories Carabiners & Quickdraws Ropes & Rope Bags Protection Helmets Ascenders, Descenders & Pulleys Slings & Webbing Chalk & Chalk Bags Rock Climbing Accessories Training Gear Explore the full Climb category to find everything you need to start climbing safely and confidently today.

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