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Un guide Skaha pour l'escalade de printemps

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Un guide Skaha pour l'escalade de printemps

On vous comprend, vous êtes coincé à grimper en salle tout l'hiver. Vous en avez assez de la foule, de cette odeur étrange de pieds qui règne dans toutes les salles et de ce sentiment d'incompétence lorsque vous vous faites bousculer par des voies en plastique. Soudain, c'est avril, et vous êtes à bout de souffle ; vous avez absolument besoin de grimper du vrai rocher, mais c'est le printemps dans la vallée de la Bow et la météo passe rapidement de 15 °C au soleil à 2 °C et à la neige. Heureusement pour vous, il existe une excellente alternative : le parc provincial Skaha, un joyau du désert de l'Okanagan, en Colombie-Britannique.

Parce que ce magnifique endroit, connu sous le nom de Skaha Bluffs, se trouve dans un désert, les journées y sont généralement chaudes et sèches, ce qui en fait un endroit idéal pour l'escalade en début et en fin de saison, tandis que d'autres zones sont encore trop froides pour y accéder. Ce site sur des falaises de gneiss abrite plus de 50 falaises, des centaines d'ascensions sportives de haute qualité et quelques voies traditionnelles classiques. Nous savons que vous vous posez de nombreuses questions : où camper ? Où manger ? Que grimper ? Heureusement, nous répondons à toutes ces questions et bien d'autres encore avec ce petit guide de Skaha !

 

 

Un peu d'histoire

Les falaises sont explorées depuis les années 1950, mais l'escalade à Skaha n'a véritablement pris son essor qu'en 1987, lorsqu'un petit groupe de grimpeurs locaux a commencé à explorer certaines des voies protégées par du matériel. Quelques années plus tard, les premiers pitons ont été percés. Dans les années 1990, Skaha est rapidement devenue la destination d'escalade incontournable de l'intérieur de la Colombie-Britannique. Les grimpeurs des falaises n'étaient plus tous des locaux. Les grimpeurs de Squamish et de la vallée de la Bow ont remarqué le climat sec et la longue saison d'escalade du désert de l'Okanagan, ce qui en faisait un endroit idéal pour les excursions de début et de fin de saison.

À la fin des années 90 et au début des années 2000, Skaha a vu naître de nombreuses nouvelles voies de difficulté difficile, avec de nouvelles voies allant jusqu'à 13. Cela a fait de Skaha un lieu où les grimpeurs pouvaient se mesurer à certaines des voies les plus difficiles du Canada.

L'accès à Skaha a toujours été problématique, et en 2008, la route d'accès a été vendue et fermée au public. Cependant, la communauté des grimpeurs s'est mobilisée et a acheté un terrain pour un nouveau parking. Elle a également convaincu des propriétaires privés de rendre le terrain public afin de permettre la transformation des falaises en parc. Celles-ci ont rapidement été transformées en parc provincial en 2010, mettant fin à la bataille pour l'accès.

 

Quand partir

Le parc est ouvert du 1er mars au 15 novembre, mais ces dates peuvent varier selon les conditions. Certains grimpeurs commencent dès février, mais cela peut être un peu trop tôt selon votre niveau. Skaha étant situé dans le désert, il y fait chaud et sec, ce qui signifie que les parois ensoleillées en plein été peuvent parfois être un peu trop chaudes. Il est donc préférable d'y aller au printemps ou à l'automne pour des températures idéales. Il est possible de grimper en été, l'important étant de trouver des parois ombragées pendant les heures les plus chaudes de la journée.

 

 

Où loger

Penticton compte de nombreux hôtels pour ceux qui ne souhaitent pas camper, et la plupart proposent des tarifs avantageux. Pour ceux qui préfèrent le camping, un excellent emplacement se trouve près de Skaha. Le terrain de camping-car Banbury Green , situé de l'autre côté du lac, offre un accès au lac ainsi que des sanitaires et des douches. Ce terrain est un peu plus cher, mais propose un tarif saisonnier pour l'escalade (consultez leur site web pour plus de détails). Le terrain de camping-cars et de tentes du lac Skaha se trouve également à Penticton, plus près des falaises et à proximité de tout ce qu'il y a à voir en ville.

Ne campez jamais dans votre voiture ou votre camionnette sur le bord de la route, cela a été un problème pour la ville de Penticton, ne mettez pas en danger notre accès aux falaises pour économiser quelques dollars.

 

 

Informations importantes

Skaha Bluff est un parc provincial, ce qui signifie que le site web du parc contient des informations actualisées sur les fermetures et les avertissements. Soyez attentif aux serpents : ils sont nombreux. Ils ne sont pas tous dangereux, mais il est préférable d'être vigilant. Tenez également tous les chiens en laisse et restez sur les sentiers balisés. Ne stationnez pas sur la route d'accès. Ne gardez aucun objet de valeur dans votre voiture : des cambriolages ont été signalés. Des agents de surveillance patrouillent le parking, alors n'hésitez pas à les remercier si vous en voyez.

Ascensions recommandées

Galets brillants : sport 10c, clairières herbeuses

Prêt à frapper : 10a trad, Diamondback

Les Ailes du Désir : 11b sport, Grand Blanc

Cytotoxique : 11a sport, Diamondback>

Plum Line : 10a sport, la Forteresse

Traîner étrangement : 11a trad, Grand Blanc

Les connards d'août : 5.9 trad, Red Tail

Être là : 11b sport, Morning Glory

Sex Machine : 10d sport, le Beffroi

Le Corbeau et l'Ours : 5.9 sport, Ravens Castle

Conseils pour les nouveaux visiteurs du Skaha

  •  En été, le soleil est votre ennemi, planifiez votre journée autour des murs à l'ombre.

  • Réservez votre camping tôt au printemps et à l'automne, ce sont les saisons les plus chargées dans les falaises.

  • Consultez le panneau sur le parking pour obtenir des informations importantes. Les grands groupes laissent souvent une note indiquant sur quel rocher ils se trouveront afin que les autres grimpeurs puissent éviter la foule.

  • Il n'y a pas d'eau dans le parc, alors apportez la vôtre et apportez-en beaucoup !

  • Le parc est également populaire auprès des randonneurs qui ne sont peut-être pas familiers avec les systèmes d'escalade, alors soyez très vigilant lorsque vous lancez vos cordes.

  • Ne bloquez pas le sentier avec votre équipement ou vos sacs

  • Ne suivez pas la foule, tout le monde semble vouloir aller vers les lignes les plus classiques, découvrez certaines des falaises les plus calmes, elles ont souvent une escalade de qualité tout aussi élevée mais sans la foule

  • Attention aux serpents ! Ces petites bêtes traînent parfois sur le sentier, alors faites attention où vous mettez les pieds !

  • On peut trouver des salamandres à queue bleue dans le parc, ce sont des créatures plutôt cool, alors gardez un œil sur elles.

  • Envisagez de faire un don à Park Watch, ils veillent à ce que votre voiture soit en sécurité pendant que vous grimpez.

  • Si le temps le permet, visitez l'un des nombreux vignobles de la région et dégustez les excellents vins de la Colombie-Britannique.

  • Terry's Comfort with Attitude à Penticton prépare de très bons petits-déjeuners, n'hésitez pas à vous y arrêter.

  • Enfin, si vous partez avec des enfants, ou si vous êtes fan de glaces, vous devez absolument vous arrêter chez Ogo's et déguster leurs généreux cornets de glaces !

Pour plus d'informations sur les ascensions de Skaha, assurez-vous de consulter le guide de Skaha et nous espérons que vous apprécierez votre séjour là-bas !

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