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A Skaha Guide for Spring Climbing
We get it, you’ve been stuck climbing in the gym all winter. You're tired of the crowds, that weird foot smell that all gyms have, and the feelings of inadequacy as you get smacked around by routes made out of plastic. Suddenly its April, and you're at your breaking point, you NEED to climb some honest to god rock, but it’s spring in the Bow Valley and the weather is rapidly changing from 15°C in the sun to 2°C and snowing . Luckily for you, there is a great alternative; Skaha Provincial Park, a gem in BC’s Okanagan desert. Because this wonderful place known as Skaha Bluffs exists in a desert, the days there are usually warm and dry which makes it a great spot for climbing the early and late season while other areas are still to cold to attend. This collection on gneiss bluffs is home to over 50 crags, hundreds of high quality sport climbs, and some classic trad lines. We know you have so many questions, such as where should I camp? Where should I eat? What should I climb? Luckily, we will answer all these questions and more with this little guide to Skaha! A little history Folks have been exploring the bluffs since the 50’s, but climbing in Skaha didn’t really take off until 1987 when a small group of local climbers started to explore some of the gear protected lines. And in a couple years the first bolts were drilled. Through the 90’s Skaha quickly became the climbing destination in the BC interior. The folks climbing in the bluffs were no longer all locals. Climbers from Squamish and the Bow Valley took notice of the dry weather and long climbing season of the Okanagan desert, which made it an ideal location for early and late season trips. Through the late 90’s and early 2000’s Skaha started to see lots of new lines in the hard grades, with new routes going into the 13’s. This made Skaha a place where climbers could test themselves against some of the hardest routes in Canada. Access had always been an issue at Skaha, and in 2008 the access road was sold and closed to the public. However, the climbing community pulled together and purchased land for a new parking lot, they also convinced private land owners to make the land public to allow the bluffs to be turned into a park. The bluffs were shortly turned into a Provincial Park in 2010, marking an end to the battle for access. When to go The park is open from March 1st to November 15, however these dates can be affected by conditions. Some folks start as early as February but that can be a bit too early depending on how tough you are. Because Skaha is in the desert, it is hot and dry, this means sunny walls in the middle of summer can be a bit too hot sometimes. For this reason it may be better to go in the spring or fall if you want ideal sending temps. It is possible to climb in the summer, the key is to find shady walls during the heat of the day. Where to stay Penticton is home to many hotels for those who don’t want to camp, many of which offer low prices. For those who are more interested in camping, there is a great campsite near Skaha. Banbury Green RV park is on the opposite side of the lake from the bluffs, it offers access to the lake as well as bathrooms and showers, this RV park is a little more expensive but it does offer a rock climbing season rate (check their site for details). There is also the Lake Skaha Tent and Trailer Park right in Penticton, this is closer to the bluffs and you are close to everything in town. Never camp in your car or van on the side of the road, this has been a problem for the city of Penticton, don’t endanger our access to the bluffs to save a couple of bucks. Important Info Skaha Bluff is a Provincial Park, which means the parks website will have current info on any closures or warnings. Be sure to watch out for snakes, there is a lot of them. Not all of them are dangerous but its best to be aware. Also keep all dogs on leash and stay on established trails. Don’t park on the access road. Don’t keep anything of value in your car, there have been some break-ins, park watch patrol the lot so be sure to thank them if you see them. Recommended climbs Brilliant Pebbles: 10c sport, Grassy Glades Ready to Strike: 10a trad, Diamondback Wings of Desire: 11b sport, Great White Cytotoxic: 11a sport, Diamondback> Plum Line: 10a sport, the Fortress Eerily Hanging Out: 11a trad, Great White Assholes of August: 5.9 trad, Red Tail Being There: 11b sport, Morning Glory Sex Machine: 10d sport, the Belfry The Raven and the Bear: 5.9 sport, Ravens Castle Tips to for the first time Skaha goer In summer the sun is your enemy, plan your day around the walls with shade. Book camping early in spring and fall, those are the busy seasons in the bluffs. Check the board in the parking lot for important info, large groups often leave a note of which crag they will be at so other climbers can dodge the crowds. There is no water in the park, so bring your own and bring lots! The park is also popular with hikers who may not be familiar with climbing systems, so be extra vigilant when throwing your ropes. Don’t block the trail with your gear or bags Don’t follow the crowds, everyone seems to want to go to the most classic lines, check out some of the quieter crags, they often have just as high-quality climbing but without the crowds Watch for snakes! These little buggers sometimes hang out on the trail, so watch your step! Blue Tail Salamanders can be found in the park, they are a pretty cool critter so keep an eye out for them. Consider donating to the Park Watch, they ensure that your car is safe while you climb. If times allow, check out one of the many wineries that are around the area and enjoy the fine BC wines Terry's Comfort with Attitude in Penticton makes some DAMN fine breakfast, be sure to stop by there. Finally, if you are going with kids, or if you are a fan of ice cream, you must stop at Ogo's and enjoy their generous ice cream cones! For more information on the Skaha Climbs, be sure to check the Skaha Guidebook and we hope you enjoy your time there!
Learn moreHow to Vanlife
For myself, this [ vanlife ] meant parting ways with a couple vehicles I had spent years getting acquainted with on my cold concrete floor. I had turned every bolt on my drift car, building it from the ground up during the long hours of the night. It was like selling a loved one. Ultimately, the money I got for it was of little value compared to the joy it would bring from the adventures to come. Warm summer nights, driving until eyes are too heavy to go on, and finding a place under the stars to call home for the night. More often than not it’s actually just the surrounding street lamps of a Walmart or some other parking lot, but what’s the difference? Sure the thought of one is usually accompanied by the sounds of busy roads that never cease to sleep, and it’s not the romanticized #vanlife you’re used to seeing on Instagram, but the principle is the same. You are free. What happens when there is no Walmart though and the local law/bylaw enforcement are all over the van community like cats on a crazy lady? What happens when your rolling home stops rolling in the middle of nowhere, and nobody wants to work on your weird obscure Van that you decided was more hipster than a chevy express? The truth is, you will never be fully prepared for life as a cruising hobo, but hopefully through my experiences you can better ready yourself for what may have been an unexpected fiasco. Commit You’ve been twiddling thumbs, reading blogs, and “subtly” making jokes with your partner that you two should live in a van. The truth is all the joking in the world won’t get you anywhere (unless you make it as a stand up on tour, I suppose). So stand tall, take charge, tell them you’ve made the decision to become a hobo, and commence selling all your household items. It can be daunting, but the truth is, if you keep saying it’ll happen when… it likely never will. So don’t wait, create a plan, and execute. For myself, this meant parting ways with a couple vehicles I had spent years getting acquainted with on my cold concrete floor. I had turned every bolt on my drift car, building it from the ground up during the long hours of the night. It was like selling a loved one. Ultimately, the money I got for it was of little value compared to the joy it would bring from the adventures to come. Buying a vehicle The most common one you can! I personally have been blessed/cursed with a strong mechanical aptitude and can fix just about anything. Anything I can readily get parts for that is… After having owned a VW Jetta and realizing VW seems to overthink, under engineer, and have a tendency to do everything different as if they’re being the hipsters of the auto world, I told myself I would never buy another. Despite my better judgement, I came across a cheap VW Eurovan and have regretted it ever since. Older Volkswagens are not known for their reliability, and can be a major headache when you find out VW doesn’t produce parts for older models, and the local part stores can’t get the ones you need for at least two weeks. Older Volkswagens are known however, for having electrical gremlins that tend to come and go at their own discretion. Not with hot or cold extremes, with certain time frames, or anything of the sort, but completely at random, leaving you stuck at the nearest McDonald’s for an hour or twenty (true story). Had it been a Chevy or a Ford any part store would’ve had a pile of parts ready to fit a number of vehicles at half the price, any local tech would be able to tell me about any obscure problem that came up, and your average socket set would work (that’s right, Volkswagens don’t even use your typical socket/wrench sizes).So choose wisely. If I had to do it again (which may be soon, since the old Eurovan gave her last breath at the end of last summer) I would buy the biggest mainstream van my budget allowed, or better yet an RV! The reality is, no van you buy is stealthy in today’s day and age. With vanlife becoming such a trend you can almost guarantee someone is living in every Volkswagen, and unmarked cargo van you see, meaning you’ll be about as discreet as a bag of chips opening during a horror movie. You’re not fooling anyone. Which leads to my next point. Shacking up When evening rolls around and it’s time to hit the sack, hopefully you’ve already scoped your parking spot under the stars (or street lamps). Many areas will have cheap or even free camping of some sorts, most often located just outside town, making for a peaceful place to hunker down for the night. If that’s not the case, you can almost always find a place in town among fellow vanlifer’s to sleep. You may nestle in between a couple campers at Home Depot, or a row of RV’s at Walmart. If you’re in a larger area, most of the time a large parking lot somewhere will be filled with fellow transients, or the elderly, traversing the country in their rental motorhomes. A few times we have rolled into the local Walmart and been turned around by “no overnight parking” signs however. Now what? As I mentioned above, no matter how stealthy you think your van may be, you have no cognito! You really have no option but to park illegally at this point. So my advice is to use common sense, be courteous, and as low key as possible. Get ready, brush your teeth, put your jammies on, and close the curtains before finding your spot for the night, so all you have to do is crawl back into your bed once you get there. Continuing your etiquette from the night before, crawl into the driver seat and peace out bright and early, giving anyone in the community no reason to cause a stink about you degenerates living on their streets. To this day, we have yet to be disturbed or asked to relocate. Use your discretion and park smart. Food Finding somewhere to dine is not such a big deal. We’ve always found a local park or such, with a large area for people to have picnics, which make for a great place to set up the stove and have your meals. As an added bonus, these places are usually quite nice and make for an enjoyable place to chow down. I’ve been bombarded with questions concerning diet, assuming we must be starving ourselves, living off ramen and dumpster buns from behind Micky-D’s. Quite honestly, the lack of running water for dishes has done wonders for my diet, as the meals have been simplified from big saucy conglomerations, down to simple wholesome foods that require minimal preparation. However, on the note of no running water, a good nonstick pot/pan combo will make your life much easier. Coffee If you are anything like me, coffee is life. Coffee fuels my ambitions, my creativity, even this blog (so if it starts sounding robotic, you know it’s time for a coffee break). Some evenings I want a coffee so bad, I can’t wait to sleep so I can wake up and start the morning brew. With that being said, I’ve attempted multiple methods and figured which are good, okay, and a total pain in my ass. We started with the collapsable pour over from Sea to Summit in the name of saving space, but due to the lack of running water, we found it to be a hassle to rinse the grounds out of it without wasting water (remember this is limited). With two of us in the van, it was also rather slow to get two cups from the one pour over. This lead to the purchase of a percolator, the bain of my existence. Maybe I never perfected this contraption, but the coffee was always so dirty, you could chew it and pick the grounds out of your teeth after, or so weak you didn’t know whether to take pity on it, or threaten it for it’s lunch money. Again, mega pain for cleaning grounds after. A few devices later, we threw in the towel and started buying coffee or going without, until we discovered the Aeropress! This wonderful little do-hicky will go from zero to brewed in 20 seconds flat, and cleaning is as easy as popping the puck of grounds into the garbage and giving a light wipe when you’re finally caffeinated enough to pass as a normal human being again. In my eyes there are only two choices for van coffee: an Aeropress, or zombie mode. One should not need a cup of coffee just to gain the motivation needed to brew more. Hygiene Don’t be gross. When people think of van dwellers and tree planters, the thought is usually accompanied with ratty hair, dirty clothes, and B.O. that packs a harder punch than Mike Tyson. In the planter’s defence, they’re typically working the long hard days of summer in the middle of nowhere. Van dweller’s, on the other hand, have no excuse for having odors offensive enough to clear a room when there are clearly so many options for staying as squeaky clean as the rest of society. When it comes to showers, it really varies from area to area, ranging from two bucks at the YMCA to six dollars at a local campsite. Depending on the days activities, you’ll find you may not need a shower every day, but if these options are still too saucy for your dwindling bank account, do everyone within a five-hundred metre radius a favour and grab some eco friendly soap and have an ice bath in one of the surrounding rivers/lakes. On the other hand, if you’re having a rest day and want to splurge, hit the local swimming pool for a soak, swim, or steam room session and take advantage of their facilities. When it comes to laundry, it can get quite expensive. For the two of us it can be up to twelve bucks for a laundry day. A cheaper option has been the Scrubba Wash bag. It’s essentially a dry bag with a patch of rubber fingers on the inside for hand washing. It works fantastic! Its biggest downfall is its capacity being limited to about a two-three shirts and a pair of pants, followed by hang drying, which in a van, can take a long time and is limited in space as well. So doing laundry often is key, but in the end can save you some extra coin and keep you from looking like the hobo you are. These are just a few of the basics of living the life on the road. Sure I could include how to make bank, ball on a budget, or what to do during a relationship crisis when your living space is the size of the shared mattress (awkward… and no, walking out is a definite no no!), but this post would take ages to read, so perhaps another time. Hopefully this will help for those who are just starting out in their new life of adventure, or encourage others to take the leap, as doing so is not as bad as it can seem at first.
Learn moreClimbing with kids - Family fun at the crag
If there is one thing climbing parents can’t wait for, besides a real good night sleep, is the first time they will get their little ones on the rock. My kids are now in their teens, so I decided to use my journey to help you benefit from the things that went well and hopefully, help you avoid the things that did not go so well. Every climbing parent dreams of the day their kid will put up the draws for them on their project or become the most reliable alpine climbing partner ever. The moment you realize you are that much closer to get a new rope gunner. My goal in introducing my kids to climbing was so that we could go out climbing as a family and hopefully go on road trips together. And because I believe that climbing also teaches a good lesson on setting goals and working through adversity to achieve them, I thought that learning that while having fun on the rock could be good them. On a trip to Kamouraska The most important thing we must remember as parents is to make climbing fun and enjoyable for kids. I know sometimes, as grown-ups, we take our climbing objectives very seriously. But for kids it has to be fun. When going climbing with little ones, as with all other outings, you are on their schedule. They may be keen to climb for a couple hours or they may get bored after half a climb; we must remember that as parents, we are playing the long game. We want them to fall in love with climbing and be in it for the long haul. If we impose a rigid schedule of what we think a full day of climbing should be, we will most likely burn them out. It’s OK if our little ones prefer playing in the creek or chasing bugs for a good part of the day while the adults climb. After all, the dirtier they are, the more fun they had, right?! Keeping them safe in a potentially dangerous environment can not be overstated. Kids do not understand all the objective hazards that climbing entails. It is our job, as parents, to mitigate those risks. Keeping them at a safe distance of the wall when not climbing, having them wear a helmet when on or close to the rock and also choosing a crag that has a mostly flat ground are just a few things I recommend. Harnesses can be ackward, so one thing we did to make our kids get used to the gear and wearing a harness was to set up zip lines in the backyard, or when we were out camping. They absolutely loved it and then did not have a problem with tying up on the rope when at the crag. But even if they were fine wearing the harness, the skill that seemed hard for our kids to grasp was sitting in the harness and being lowered. Climbing was fun and kept them focused, but when they reached their high point, they realized how high they were and sometimes became gripped. After one or two "crisis situations", we made them climb up about 2 meters from the ground and allowed them to swing side to side, practicing different position and how they could brace themselves using their legs. Practicing walking backward is also easier to do when close to the ground, where adults can more easily coach the young climbers and help them if needs be. Climbing equipment for kids Depending on the height and weight of the child, you may want to get her started in a full body harness. This type of harness has a higher tie-in point and prevents the little climber from flipping upside down. Usually, once kids reach 30 kg, they will transition into a kids sit harness. Kids climbing shoes are not a must but rubbing running shoes against the rock will destroy any footwear that does not have a protective rubber rand. Kids climbing shoes should be sized to limit heel movement but at the same time should be comfortable for little ones. You can start them in a bigger pair that they’ll wear with socks and remove the socks when their little feet grow. Remember, its all about making this fun and enjoyable for kids, performance shoes can come later. A climbing helmet is a good idea for everybody, especially kids who are not fully aware of potential dangers like rock falls. Bike helmets are better than no helmets at all, but keep in mind that they are not design or certified to protect the user against falling rocks like a climbing helmet is. In order to keep your little crusher entertained, make sure to bring a lot of toys, books and snacks. Kids rarely have the attention span to stay focused on climbing the entire day. You will have a longer climbing session if you can manage to keep the little ones entertained while outside. Once they are done with climbing, they may appreciate toys, books or just building dams in the creek. Going out with other families or as part of a large group is also always a good idea. It makes looking after kids a lot easier than if you are only going out as a couple. In this situation, the belayer has double duties, keeping the climber safe and looking after the kids. Not an ideal situation. The minimum ratio should be at least 3 adults for 1 to 3 kids. And well, sometimes you go on a road trip to Smith Rocks and end up at the Seattle Aquarium because everything you had planned, did not go as expected, and it is still ok. How about you This entire post has been focused on the kid’s experience. I would like to finish this with a bit of wisdom that was passed down to me by someone way wiser than I can ever wish to be: "Even if, for now, it may seem that you have no time to do the things you really love, like skiing and climbing. You must find the way and time to stay fit. " Even as new parent, we must fight each day to stay active and not let atrophy wins. One day you will regain some control over your life and again be able to go play outside. When that day comes, you have to be ready to hit the ground running. And if the day doesn't go as planned, take a deep breath, play in the dirt with your kid for a little while, maybe open a beer, and try again later!
Learn more10 reasons to NOT try Ice Climbing
If you are thinking about trying out ice climbing this winter, we want to make sure you can take an informed decision. That's why we've decided to make a list of 10 reasons NOT to try ice climbing. Hope you enjoy it! Winter in the Canadian Rockies is a beautiful thing, with white snow blanketing the ground and refreshing cool (but not too cold) temps it's hard not to wholeheartedly love this winter wonderland. With many fun things to do in the winter, such as telemark skiing, curling, and drifting your car around the Safeway parking lot, why would anyone want to go ice climbing? Luckily for you, the researchers here, at Vertical Addiction, have come up with 10 reasons why no one should ever climb a frozen waterfall. 1. It's cold Many ice climbers will tell you that ice climbing can be quite comfortable while your bundled up in layers of high-tech fabric designed to keep you warm in the most inhospitable condition, but don’t be fooled!! Even with the toasty double layer insulation of a jacket like the Black Diamond Stance Belay parka, you will be borderline hypothermic for the duration of your climb. Not to mention your poor feet. Did you really think that huge double boots designed for expeditions would keep your feet warm? Well think again, those massive boots can't hold a candle to the brutal cold of ice climbing. 2. It's not pretty These ice climbing kooks will tell you about the unspeakable beauty of ascending a crystal-like tower in the middle of jagged snow capped peaks, but how can ice be beautiful? Have you ever slipped and fell on an iced-up sidewalk and said: “Wow look how pretty this ice is!”? NO, so why would a 100m high sheet of smooth blue ice be any different. The scenery is also not a good reason to do this masochistic activity. Sure, you sometimes get to see breathtaking vistas and cool canyons with ice pouring down the walls, but you can also see that on the internet, or from your car on the Icefields Parkway. Checkmate ice climbers! 3. It's hard to learn Some things are easy to learn, like riding a bike or rocket science. Ice climbing is not one of those things. It is almost impossible to figure out how to climb even the easiest ice. No amount of modern gear and Youtube videos will give you any idea of how to ascend a curtain of ice. Well what about taking a course? I’m glad you asked. Besides the dozen companies running regular intro to ice climbing courses in the Canmore/Banff area, there is almost no way to learn how to swing an ice tool. Photo Courtesy of: On Top Mountaineering Guiding Company 4. It's not a social sport With some sports, like snow fort making, you get to hang around cool like-minded individuals. In ice climbing however, you only get to hang out with your closest friend, that you trust with your life, and if you're really lucky you are around other parties that just want to have fun and share a common goal, just as you. Not very social huh? But what happens if you go ice and mixed cragging at one of the many easy-access crags in the Bow Valley? Chances are there will be other folks there that will help you push your limits and enrich the whole experience, that doesn’t sound very fun to me! Photo courtesy of: Yamnuska Moutain Aventure 5. It's not fun I know what you're thinking; what could possibly be fun about swinging ergonomic high-tech ice axes and kicking sharp crampons to climb a pillar of blue ice? Nothing, not a thing is fun about this. Who, in their right mind, would find navigating an ocean of steep ice fun? Nobody, that’s who. Even bolted mixed climbing isn't that fun; how could someone have fun pushing their physical and mental limits in a relatively safe and low-pressure environment? They can't, that’s how. Anyone who says they enjoy ice climbing are just trying to fool you into joining them. 6. It's not rewarding A lot of folks will tell you that pulling over the top of a climb that you’ve wanted to do for a long time is one of the most rewarding things you can do. I’ll tell you what's rewarding, looking back on the well shoveled driveway that you just slaved over for the last 3 hours. Pushing your limits and accomplishing things you never thought possible, like climbing a grade of ice for the first time, is just not worth it. No end can justify the means of ice climbing. 7. It can only be done in the winter So this sport can only be done in winter? Gee! winter in Canada is only 7 months long, not a very long window to climb in if you ask me. For example, you can rock climb all year round with ease and reasonable comfort, trust me on this. But ice climbing in cozy layers is a lot less enjoyable than grabbing onto little frozen rock edges with your exposed fingers. Besides, why waste a good season of snowball fighting to climb some silly icicles? 8. You won’t get to see any cool places Ice climbing typically takes place in some pretty boring places, unlike snowshoeing that allows you to roam the mountains and visit some very cool areas. Here are some places that you won't be able to ice climb: large caves, breathtaking mountain faces, and backcountry waterfalls. Ice climbers just spend their time in dark boring canyons. Any stories you’ve heard about underground ice or backcountry flows the size of buildings are just greatly exaggerated! 9. No cool gear When you go bouldering in the gym, you get to use cutting edge gadgets to help you succeed like brushes, chalk bags, and tape. When you go ice climbing, you don’t get any cool gadgets, just state-of-the-art carbon fiber ice tools and super light technical crampons with forged components. Lame right?!? 10. Because a list you found on the Internet said so We, at Vertical Addiction, realize that the decision to ice climb or not is a hard one, so that’s why we did the thinking for you! Ice climbing is cold and hard, and nobody should do it. Just trust us on this one, OK? We promise this isn't a tactic to protect our secret WI2, three hours from the road. Nope, not at all. Just forget I mentioned it, and keep doing fun things this winter like drinking hot chocolate and drytooling. Bonus reason THE SCREAMING BARFIES! *Disclosure: Ice climbing is actually pretty cool. To be honest, we are just messing with you! And if you wanted to learn more on the equipment you need to bring to make the most of your ice climbing day, you can read this article.
Learn moreMixed Master Ascent
Mixed Master is one of the finest mixed climb of its type in the Rockies. This ultra-classic route has been on my list for a while now and I was incredibly excited to have the chance to jump on it in challenging conditions . Mixed Master is one of the finest mixed climb of its type in the Rockies. This ultra-classic route has been on my list for a while now and I was incredibly excited to have the chance to jump on it in challenging conditions with local crusher Niall. We attempted to get on the route a week earlier but found a jackknifed transport truck blocking the highway after getting stuck trying to illegally drive the 93 North to Jasper. On attempt number two we were able to get on in great conditions. Mixed Master Location Icefield Parkway Date February 2018 Style Ice, Mixed Grade IV, WI 5, M4-5, 5.8 Length 300m, 4-7 pitches Topo from Joe Josephson's now out of print book. The following gear photos were taken a week prior to our successful climb and we made a few slight changes based on the anticipated conditions (read: colder) but for the most part, the equipment used was as follows: Climbing Gear and Hardware Screws - Expecting a lot of thin ice, we brought extra stubbies and heavily favored the shorter length of Petzl Laser Speed Light screws. Our selection was 10cm x2, 13cm x6 and 17cm x4 plus a 21cm for V-threads. Rock Gear - A single rack of cams to 3" with doubles of mid sizes and a handful of nuts. In thin conditions, a few thin knifeblades would have been helpful but not required. The rack shown here was replaced by a full collection of Totem Cams with doubles of the midsizes. Draws - Alpine draws x6 and quickdraws x6. All were equipped with Petzl Ange carabiners, which have my vote for the best alpine carabiner on the market. We had a single Cassin load limiter draw, which was helpful on thin ice. Could have used a few more long slings. Ropes - We climbed on my 57m Petzl Salsa 8.2mm half ropes and the length was fine. Had we brought 70m ropes it would have enabled us to link a pitch or two differently but it would have meant more rope handling most of the time, I chose to climb with dual point crampons (Cassin Alpinist Pro) as the mixed terrain was not overly challenging and didn't necessitate monos. The recent dumping of snow reaffirmed this choice. Cassin X-Dreams with mixed picks. I like to use the Petzl V-Link umbilicals on multipitches. Harness - Arc'Teryx 395AR with four DMM Vault ice clippers. This is my go-to harness for ice and i like the option of clipping my tools to a nearly indestructible clipper like the DMM's for varied climbing. Helmet - Petzl Sirocco (older style) - Not winning any beauty competitions with this thing but I love the weight and it trust it implicitly. Personal Kit - Petzl Reverso with two lockers (old style Petzl Hera and DMM Phantom), two extra lockers (new style Petzl Hera), cordelette bundle and Sterling Hollowblock, a anchor kit and v-thread supplies. This packing list can be found here. Small First Aid Kit, tiny repair kit, one liter of water, a few bars and some nuts. Since we geared up at the car I was able to fit everything I needed to carry into a 26L pack. Today's Rack: All Totems Clothing System It was freezing in the parking lot (-27C) and I did the short approach in a pair of synthetic puffy pants. Being shaded most of the day with bluebird skies meant balancing cold in the shadows and warm in the sun. I chose to balance this dichotomy by layering heavily with active insulation. Boots - Scarpa Phantom Tech's. These are my go-to for ice and mixed climbing. I threw a pair of adhesive toe warmers on first Socks - Single pair of Bridgedale Mountain. If it was a longer, harder approach I would bring a second pair and change at the base. Baselayer Lowers Pants - I typically climb ice in softshells. It was a little cold in the wind but fine when moving. Had there been more snow on this route I could have opted for hardshells. Baselayer Upper Midlayer Soft Shell - This lived in the pack for the day. Belay Jacket - I originally opted for a synthetic because I assumed the route would be snowy but ended up lending this jacket to my partner who was cold and wore my Down Jacket. I was happy to have the extra warmth. Extra Insulation - I run cold so usually throw in an extra puffy in case of emergency. This time it was the Outdoor Research Cathode. Mine is the older style with the stretchy side panels and it breathes well enough to wear under a shell, as well as over. I ended up climbing in this as my shell for the day. Glove System - I usually bring more than I need. Today I packed two pairs of Black Diamond Arcs for leading, Outdoor Research Aretes for seconding and Black Diamond Enforcers for rappelling. Mixed Master Trip Report We parked at the plowed roadside pullout, as per Weeping Wall, geared up at the car and walked couple hundred meters north on the road to the obvious start of the route, where we were already second in line as another party was beginning the upper pitches. It should be noted that the ravens have grown accustomed to human interactions are extremely bold and crafty. I wouldn't recommend leaving anything at the base of this route, regardless of how secure you think it is. Leave it at the car or take it with you. Pitch One (WI3) - The Scottish Gully type feature was thin, rock hard and we had no trouble finding good protection We broke up the pitch by belaying off the first of the two belay stations. Pitch Two (WI4ish) - The ice was thinner in spots and climbed more like a mixed pitch with stemming on rock and occasionally hooking and torquing in cracks. Protection was mostly 13's with a few tens. The second half had a really fun overhang that was well hooked out and protected with 17's in bomber ice. I stretched it about 55m to the mini amphitheater atop and belayed off bolts. Pitch Three and Four (WI2-3) - We traversed straight right to comfortable, sheltered cave. On arrival, we realized we should have just linked these two and continued up the short section of low angle ice where we belayed off a two screw anchor in another comfortable cave. Pitch Five (5.8) - Traversing back left onto rock terrain was a little tricky as the sun just hit the pitch and the snow began to slide off the rock. It was a little slabby but the protection was easy to find with a rack of Totem cams. There were lots of little flared pockets that seemed custom made for these. A single rack to 2" would have been fine but since we had a #3 it got placed. The gully above felt much more like alpine with the deep snow trudging and there were a few pins to be found. The station was bolted and easy to find. Pitch Six (M4) - Easy, low angled climbing on thin ice with almost entirely rock pro. Belayed from a tree high above. We unroped and scrambled up 60m of kicked out snow and a few small ice ramps to a bolted station at the base of the final pitch. Pitch Seven - (WI5, M6ish) - The ice was non-existent on the bottom section, making for a scrappy mixed start. There were two pins (a bomber baby angle and horizontal Lost Arrow) on route but we found a great purple Totem on the right and a perfect red pulling over the mantle to the start of the ice. The ribbon of ice itself was thin, hooked out and insecure but really fun. A bomber green cam on the side wall really helped as the ice really only took 10's and 13's. Descent - Five easy raps brought us right back to the staging area without difficulty. There are a few spots with belay stations that could cause confusion but we only used the stations we belayed off on the way up. When we reached the ground we found that the group below us had left their packs and raven had ripped them to shreds looking for food. Another reminder not to leave anything at the base. With the cold start, thin ice gullies, mixed protection and a spicy finish, Mixed Master has plenty of character. Even though you can see your car from just about any point during the climb it is an excellent training day for bigger objectives and has the feel of an old-school alpine climb. You aren't throwing Figure-4's off enhanced holds in a cave on sport draws. This is an excellent way to develop your mixed climbing skills and a highly recommended route.
Learn moreCoire Dubh Integrale - Trip Report
All in all, this route makes for a great day out moving up snow and ice slopes, with a chance to swing some tools and place some rock gear along the way. (read time: 6 min) Ice, trad, route finding, and a true summit to top off the 700m day. For some of us, time spent honing our skills at the crags are in preparation for days like these. With low to moderate difficulty, a wide range of necessary skills needed, and a full day adventure, Coire Dubh Integrale makes for a great introduction to alpine climbing. Route Location: Loder Peak, Alberta Time: 7.5hrs, car to car Style: Alpine Grade III, W3 5.7 Length: 700m, 2-5 pitches Climbing Gear and Hardware Screws - 5x13cm ,1x16cm, and of course the 21 cm bailout/v-thread screw. We chose a smaller rack of Petzl Laser Speed ice screws, only expecting one real pitch of WI3 with options for anchors at the top. Rock Gear - A single rack of camalots to 3", as well as a set of nuts. Draws - Alpine draws x3 and quickdraws x6. Due to the nature of some rock placements, I would’ve preferred more alpine draws than quickdraws. Rope - With no plans to rappel the route we opted for a 60m Sterling Nano 9mm, which evidently would’ve been fine in the event that we had to bail. I climb in Cassin Blade Runner crampons as I am a fan of the fit, and just how versatile they are with the option of dual, mono, or even horizontal front point configurations. I opted to keep them in a dual point set up for the added stability on ice and snow, confident mono would be unnecessary for the rock section. DMM Apex’s were the weapon of choice for the day. Versatile and burly. What else could I ask for? Petzl Adjama harness, with Petzl Caritools. Helmet - The Black Diamond Vapor. Save some weight, make a fashion statement, and show everyone just how many times you’ve bumped your head or dropped your helmet as it seems to mark easy, but its light, it breathes, and for a climbing helmet it looks half decent Personal Kit - Petzl Reverso with two lockers, two extra lockers, cordelette bundle and personal prusik, an anchor kit and v-thread supplies. This packing list can be found here. Extras - Headlamp, small First Aid Kit, hand warmers, tiny repair kit, one liter of water, a few bars and some dried fruit. Pack - My personal day pack of choice has been the Osprey Mutant 28 for almost a year now. I’ve found it to be the perfect medium between a lightweight minimalist pack, and one that’s overloaded with unnecessary features that seldom see use. It carries weight well, has a helmet and rope carry, can carry skis in an a frame, but can be stripped down to shave weight, and seems to be the perfect size for a days worth of gear and my DSLR. Coire Dubh Integrale Trip Report There was no big surprise when we forced our doors open into the full force of the prairie winds that seem to frequently sweep the area along the front ranges. Parking in the paved lot across from the landfill, about 2 km or so east of Exshaw, we started our early morning approach with hoods over our heads, and lamps illuminating not much more than clouds of dust being thrust in our face by the wind, hoping conditions might be better in the shelter of the drainage we were heading for. For the approach, walk across the road and head towards the landfill, taking the climbers trail along the east side of the fence and around the back side of the landfill. Head NW from there on what should be a well-established trail, making sure not to turn off too early and head into the wrong drainage (this seems to be a common occurrence). Pitch One (WI3) - 25m. This pitch forms fat and wide offering some steeper ice up the center or some more mellow WI2 options on the sides. Though the rest of the climb didn’t seem to see any sun, this first pitch was getting the full brunt of the sunrise, which was evident as it reminded me of the same rotten ice you’d get on something like melt out. The top out has multiple anchor options. Photo: Taylor Sullivan Making a few mountaineer coils, we decided to simul-climb the next couple hundred meters to the rock pitch, as it mainly consisted of boot-packing wind packed snow with the odd bit of rambling ice throughout. We reached a short step of WI2 ice that was about 8m or so just below the rock pitch. We decided to carry on simul climbing through this, however, some may decide to pitch it out deciding on comfort level. Pitch 2 (5.7) - 30m Climb the left facing corner at the right of the face to a tree anchor. Not being a strong mixed climber, this was the pitch that had me anxious, however, it really never felt more than 5.7 with crampons on. This low angle slab is full of pockets and features that make climbing with gloved hands or tools a breeze. A few nuts and a few cams protected this pitch well. A short scramble to the left of the climb brought us to the next snow-covered scree slope. Having not planned to take the direct route, we headed right up some more rambling ice and snow. A couple hundred meters later, we saw our obvious exit through a gully to our left. Our topo described this section as a climb, however, a short stemming section that could’ve made its way into a guidebook of scrambles brought us onto a final scree slope to the summit ridge. Descent The descent was pretty straightforward, scrambling the ridgeline to gain the summit of Loder Peak, and following the obvious hikers route down to the highway. Though the drainage gave shelter from the earlier mentioned winds, be prepared to meet them again on the ridge as it is notorious for being extremely windy most of the time (this becomes quite evident when looking at the trees missing their western branches). Leaving a second car at the bottom of the descent may seem pointless at first, but future self will thank you after the long walk off the summit. All in all, this route makes for a great day out if you’re looking to try your hand at becoming the next (less extreme) Ueli Steck, with all of its fast-paced (depending what kind of shape you’re in) moving up snow and ice slopes, with a chance to swing some tools and place some rock gear along the way. As an added bonus, climb later in the week and head down the road to the Stoney Nakoda Casino for their dinner buffet to recover all those lost calories afterward.
Learn moreBooming Ice Chasm or Climbing in the Dark
Halfway up a mountain in the Canadian Rockies exists a very unique place, a true natural wonder; the Booming Ice Chasm. 5 pitches of fun, anxiety, and excitement. This day was truly an incredible adventure that we will not forget soon. Read time: 8 minutes. The Booming Ice Chasm cave contains a 180m long sheet of clear ice that never melts. It is protected from the heat of summer by a year-round pocket of freezing air. Since its discovery in 2008, the cave has received coverage from multiple high-profile media outlets, as well as an entire episode of the 16x9 news program. But somehow, this icy wonder sees few visitors, which might be for the best. Everyone who has been there has kept the details to a minimum, which is a pattern I will follow. Route Location: Canadian Rockies Time: 12 hours car to car Style: ice climbing, caving. Length: 180m, 3-5 pitches of low angle ice. Climbing Gear and Hardware Protection - we brought 10 Black Diamond Express Ice Screws Quickdraws - we had 8 DMM Alpha Trad quickdraws and 2 Black Diamond Oz Runner Set extendable quickdraws. Rope - 2 Mammut twilight 7.5 half/twin ropes Ice tools - I brought my Black Diamond Cobra Ice Tools, the cobra is my tool of choice for anything from alpine climbing to steep waterfall ice. Footwear - I wore my La Sportiva Trango Ice Cube GTX mountaineering boots paired with the Petzl Lynx crampons for the climb, and I brought a pair of trail runners for the approach. Helmet - I wore my Black Diamond Vapor, it's light enough that sometimes I even forget I'm wearing it. Personal kit - I brought the DMM Pivot with two locking carabiners, a 180cm sling, cordelette, a few extra slings, a few extra non-locking carabiners, and a Sterling Hollow block Backpack - I chose to bring the Black Diamond Mission 35, excellent support and a climbing specific feature set make this one of the most used bags in my quiver. Clothing - I wore a standard ice climbing setup in the cave and some lighter layers on the approach. Extras - I packed a headlamp, a small first aid kit, some bars, water, and extra batteries Booming Ice Chasm Trip Report Somethings never get less impressive the more you see them; the mouth of the booming ice chasm is definitely one of them. This being my second trip to the cave, I was expecting to be less intimidated by the cave. However, as I peered down the massive funnel I was just as anxious as the first time I laid eyes on it. This time, I had fellow Vertical Addiction employees Branden and Aidan with me. After having taken some pictures and taking in the views, we started to put on our climbing layers and boots. Once we had our gear on, we threaded the ropes through the first anchor and tossed the ropes down the scree toward the caves entrance. This first rappel goes down low angle scree and snow that funnels down to the narrow entrance to the cave, about halfway down you hit the wall of cold air that preserves the ice. Once in the mouth, there is a two-bolt anchor on the roof of the cave, which is about 4 feet above the ice. This anchor is very awkward to stand at, and it's scary because the next person coming down must be very careful not to dislodge any scree as the anchor is right in the line of fire. Below the anchor, the ice steepens and drops away into the abyss, the blackness eats the beams of our headlamps and any sound loudly echoes. After we all arrived at the anchor, we pulled the ropes and tossed them into the darkness below. The next rappel goes down the steeper ice for 15 meters before backing off to a lower angle, I went down a total of 55 meters to a flat top, atop a bulge feature, where I built a v-thread. Once my eyes adjusted, I found myself in the most amazing place in the world. A massive chamber - 30 meters wide and 20 meters high -with beautiful streaked limestone walls. On the far side, there is a 20 meter frozen flow and an incredible chandeliered piece of ice that is almost the height of the cave. Another rappel down low angle ice brought us to a bolted anchor among several large boulders, frozen in the ice. One more rappel brought us to the bottom of the cave: a large chamber with a frozen lake. Pitch One After a quick break at the bottom, we decided to start the climb back out. The first pitch was easy low angle ice. Branden started motoring snow and scree towards the ice on the right side. Once on the ice, he climbed up near the right wall. The ice starts off as a bit thin but quickly becomes fat clear ice. Following this pitch was a great way to warm up the calves for the pitches above. Pitch Two At the belay station, I took the lead and peeled left and up the low angle ice, periodically using the calf resting techniques I had learned on my last trip into the cave. The ice is perfectly flat and has no features to rest on, so efficiency is key for not having fiery calves. I ended this pitch at the base of the steeper bulge feature, about 45 meters from the last belay. Pitch Three (option 1) We wanted to take some photos of me climbing the bulge, so we needed to get Branden and all his gear to the top of the bulge ahead of us, he opted to go around it on the right side, on a calf friendly snowfield, as to not disturb the pristine ice. The snow offered fast easy travel to the top of the bulge, but the protection options were limited. Pitch 3 (option 2) Once Branden was in position, I cut left and took the steepest part of the bulge head on. The ice wasn’t too steep, but it was definitely steeper than the other pitches. It was nice because for a few body lengths I could rely a little more on traditional ice climbing techniques to rest my calves due to the increased angle. The ice was transparent, and it felt like I was flying. Unfortunately, the angle started to back off and before I knew it I was on top of the bulge. Pitch 4 This next pitch was pure calf doom, the memories of searing calf burn was still fresh in my memory from when I was last in the cave. Thankfully, Branden stepped up, so I didn’t have to lead it again. Branden battled up the sustained ramp of hard clear ice, resting his calves whenever he could, but the burn didn’t stop him from getting to the top of the steep section and getting in a belay 20m from the exit. Pitch 5 I was left with a short pitch to the top. After a section of ice, I got to a snow rest where I dumped my pack, so I could wriggle my way through the final squeeze to freedom unencumbered. I set a belay when I got some headroom and brought the boys up. They grabbed my pack on the way past and climbed up onto the snowfield above. From there, we scrambled up to the ledge into a blowing snowstorm! We quickly transitioned back to hiking and started to race down the trail again, all of us still processing the experience we had just had. All the fun, anxiety, and excitement that place had brought us was truly an incredible adventure that we would not forget soon. Bonus tips! This isn't your everyday waterfall ice climb, this is caving! Before heading into the cave be sure to hone your underground skills in a less technical cave. It would be quite unwise to go into this cave with no experience underground. Mark your anchors with Glowsticks as you descend into the cave. It will make finding the belays much easier in the dark. If you hike up and find that another party is already in the cave, DO NOT enter the cave. Either wait until they exit the cave or simply turn around. You will dislodge rocks during the first rappel which could prove catastrophic to a climbing party below. Anything knocked down will slide down the ice at an increasing rate of speed, until it reaches the bottom, with nothing to hide behind. Any party in the cave is completely exposed to rock or ice fall. Leave no trace. Caves are a very sensitive environment. Don’t leave V-thread cord or garbage in the cave. Do not damage the walls of the cave or any of the rock. And lastly, don’t poo in the cave, nobody wants to see that. You can put the belays in different spots than us and shorten or lengthen pitches at your discretion. An extra headlamp, as well as extra batteries, are good things to carry into any cave. If you do end up visiting this area, try to limit the details you release to the public. You have probably realized that I didn’t mention anything about the cave's location or approach beta, this is because finding it is part of the adventure. Anybody who really wants to go here can find it with all the details available online.
Learn moreIce Climbing Packing List - The Essentials
An in-depth ice climbing packing list with gear suggestions, product reviews and a downloadable check list to ensure you have all the essential gear for your next ice climbing adventure. ( 15 minutes read ) Ice climbing is a very gear-dependent sport. Technical, athletic movements in a harsh, unforgiving environment demand a delicate balance of precision and protection from the elements. Having unsuitable equipment for ice climbing can quickly turn a great day into the mountains into an epic. Below I've listed the ice climbing packing list that I follow every time I'm packing my bag. Please note I have not included ice climbing clothing systems as this is a topic for another post unto itself. Every effort was made to include variances and the rationale for their inclusion. Ice Climbing Packing List Mountaineering Boots Warm, stiff, insulated mountaineering boots are the most essential component of your technical gear, with fit being paramount. They must be voluminous enough so as not to restrict blood flow whilst ensuring your heel remains firmly planted. Make sure your have enough space that you do not bash the front of your toes when kicking. For general ice climbing consider single leather mountaineering boots such as the Scarpa Mont Blanc or the La Sportiva Nepal Cube GTX. These provide a fine compromise between weight, price, warmth and durability. The fit is considered rather neutral and they are excellent for long approaches on varied terrain. La Sportiva Nepal Cube, Scarpa Mont Blanc GTX For those who run a little colder, supergaiter boots such as the Scarpa Phantom Tech or the La Sportiva G5 provide additional warmth and element protection by encasing a single leather boot with a waterproof gaiter. This combination allows for a warm, lightweight boot with plenty of mobility. These boots climb and walk fantastically while keeping your toes very warm but are expensive and less durable than a general mountaineering boot. La Sportiva G5, Scarpa Phantom Tech For the coldest days when you probably shouldn’t be ice climbing, double boots are often the only solution. These feature a removable inner boot and a protective outer for the greatest combination of warmth, albeit usually with a serious weight penalty. While double plastic boots like the Scarpa Inverno have been the standard for a long time, newer boots like the Scarpa Phantom 6000, La Sportiva G2SM, Arcteryx Acrux AR and Mammut Nordwand 2.1 now utilize lightweight materials to create a boot that is barely heavier than a single leather boot. These are generally overkill for most days but anything below -20C and these become a very welcomed option. La Sportiva G2SM, Scarpa Phantom 6000, Mammut Nordwand 2.1 Crampons Your crampons must be purpose-built for ice climbing and fit well to your boots. This means a firm pressure is required to latch the heel lever, minimal space exists between the heel posts and the forefoot of the boot is in complete contact with the front piece of the crampon. While it is possible to use hybrid style crampons, fully automatic are the standard. The most popular choice for pure waterfall ice climbing is a dual vertical front point configuration. This allows for ample purchase and stability in the widest range of conditions. These can be fixed front pieces as found on the Grivel G22, Cassin Alpinist Pro or Petzl Dart. While they are generally the lightest option, the front points are not replaceable. Dual Points with replaceable front points, such as the Petzl Lynx, Black Diamond Cyborg, Grivel Rambo 4 and G14 or the Cassin Bladerunner allow easy swapping of broken or worn front points but that added hardware ups the weight. Most of these will also allow you to switch to a monopoint configuration. Cassin Blade Runners, Petzl Lynx, Black Diamond Cyborg Monopoints are the best option for technical ice, mixed climbing or fragile conditions where the increased surface area of dual points would displace too much ice. These offer a level of precision generally not possible with dual points but sacrifice the stability as there is less metal in contact with the ice. They will also not provide a lot of confidence in chandeliery, aerated ice. Like the dual points, they come in both fixed (such as the Grivel G20 and Petzl Dart) or replaceable (like the Black Diamond Stingers) variations. Lastly, and often discredited as a mountaineering tool, alpine crampons with horizontal front points offer increased surface area in soft conditions, acting as miniature shovels. While they require an exaggerated heels-down leg swing, with proper use they are less prone to sheering in variable snow and ice conditions. What differentiates this style from the general mountaineering crampons is largely the orientation of the secondary points. Crampons such as the Black Diamond Sabretooth Pro, Petzl Sarken or Cassin Alpinist are designed with aggressively forward facing secondaries to secure foot placements with easy. These often outperform duals or monos in low angle terrain. Petzl Sarken, Black Diamond Sabertooth Pro, Cassin Alpinist Ice Axes One of the most vehemently debated topics of gear discussion are ice axes. People tend to chose their favorites and argue their merits without reserve. While all tools have their unique pro's and con's, generally speaking, they can be divided into two broad catagories: All-round or alpine ice tools and steep ice tools. While both will work well on a variety of terrain they are each optimized to excel under certain conditions. All-round or alpine ice tools can be characterized by having a slightly bent shaft, moderate pick angle and a plunge-able spike. It is not uncommon to see tools of this sort equipped with one hammer and one adze attachment but for pure waterfall ice it is preferable to remove the adze for safety reasons. These make for an excellent tool for beginners and advanced climbers alike and the moderate pick angle make them ideal for lower angled terrain. It should be noted that because these tools have a smaller pommel and a less economical grip they pose a challenge on very steep terrain. Popular options include the Petzl Quark, Cassin X-All Mountain, Black Diamond Viper or Cobra and the DMM Apex. Top To Bottom: Cassin X-All Mountain, Black Diamond Cobra, DMM Apex, Black Diamond Viper, Petzl Quark Steep ice or mixed climbing tools differ by having a steeper pick angle and generally an offset grip, optimizing the position for steep to overhanging terrain. They offer a variety of grips for switching hand positions and are the ideal choice for complicated terrain. These usually remove a plunge-able spike from the bottom because that same widened pommel that allows for a more comfortable resting position also increases the difficulty of plunging. Additionally, the steeper pick angle is designed to penetrate the ice with a snap of the wrist while the handle is close to the ice. This makes moderate terrain more difficult to gain purchase. In recent years the Cassin X-Dream has grown exceedingly popular but other excellent options include the Petzl Nomic, Grivel Tech Machine, DMM Switch and Black Diamond Fuel. Top to Bottom: Petzl Ergo, Cassin X-Dream, DMM Switch, Black Diamond Fuel Giving these distinctions, does this mean you have to have two different two different tools? Of course not. People have soloed harder ice than most of us will ever climb on far worse tools than our modern options. just know that some are optimized for certain conditions and choose accordingly. Leashes have also fell by the wayside as modern tools have made it easier to hang on for long periods of time. However, sometimes it is handy to have umbilicals to prevent your from dropping a tool, other times they can prove to be a hindrance. As a rule, I only used umbilicals when dropping a tool would prove catastrophic. Helmet A non-negotiable. You must wear a helmet certified for climbing. There is no ice specific helmet and a if you already have a rock climbing helmet it will suffice. As there is often pieces of falling ice, a hardshell style helmet like the Petzl Elios or Black Diamond Half Dome are excellent choices. Others prefer lighter styles like the Petzl Sirrocco or the Black Diamond Vapor. Ensure it is sized appropriately to fit over a hood or hat. You should be able to see the front of your helmet when you look upwards and it should not move about when you shake your head front-to-back or side-to-side. Top to Bottom: Black Diamond Half Dome, Black Diamond Vapor, Petzl Sirocco Harness and Ice Clippers Where a rock climbing harness and an ice/alpine climbing harness differ lies in the construction and the inclusion of ice clipper slots. Modern harnesses designed specifically for winter use will use materials such as dyneema or spectra to reduce weight and prevent water absorption. While these are certainly nice enhancements they are not mandatory for ice climbing and a rock climbing harness will suffice. However, having the small loops built into the harness to allow for ice clippers is very handy. This allows for easy access to screws, both for placing and racking. The new Petzl Caritool clippers allow the user to place them anywhere on the harness, essentially nullifying the need. Petzl Caritool Evo For specific harnesses, the Petzl Sitta, Arcteryx AR395 and Black Diamond Aspect are great choices. And for those seeking the Rolls Royce of ice clippers, the DMM Vault's are nearly unbreakable. DMM Vault Backpack All of your gear should stow nicely inside a 30-40L backpack. When selecting a pack, light is right. Avoid bags that feature excessive frills, fancy attachments or heavy frames. Packs like the Patagonia Ascensionist or the Arcteryx Alpha FL are essentially one compartment a cinch top and a light foam back from. It is important to have ice tool attachment points on the exterior and potentially a means of attaching crampons. Climber-specific packs will be sized shorter so as not to block access to gear loops on your harness and not ride up and impede your swing. Make sure your pack weighs less than three pounds unloaded. If you’re rappelling the route you could also bring a small summit pack. This only needs to carry your belay jacket, spare gloves, a thermos and your headlamp. It need not be any larger than 20L and should roll down to very small and fit inside your larger pack. Belay Device, Locking Carabiners, Anchor Material At the very least, each climber requires their own tube style belay device with locking carabiner and a spare locker. If embarking on a multipitch climb the gear requirements for carabiners and anchor material are similar to the that of multipitch rock climbing (read more about that here: Essential Gear For Multipitch Climbing). You'll need a few extra locking carabiners, slings for anchor building or creating a personal tether, a personal prusik or Sterling Hollowblock and a 5m bundle of cordelette (minimum 9-10kN strength). Personal Bail Kit Every ice climber should have the knowledge and the means to create a safe anchor in an expedient fashion with minimal gear. Usually this means creating a V-thread or Abalokov. The gear required for this is a 21cm ice screw, an Abalahook and a short length of cord meeting the minimum standard of 10kN. This usually means 7mm cord and requires either 1.2m of precut cordage or a small knife to cut a segment off your cordelette bundle (you do carry one, right?). 21cm Petzl Laser Light screw, v-threader, 1.2m of 7mm tat, Petzl Spatha knife If you're not comfortable making a V-thread, seek professional instruction from an ACMG certified Alpine or Mountain guide to make sure you're perfectly clear on the subtle nuances of this essential skill. Ice Screws and Draws The number of ice screws required for any route is dictated by the nature of the pitches and your own personal comfort. Bring along enough to feel adequately protected while not impeding your climbing with excessive weight. Generally speaking, 10-12 screws should be enough. Bring more if its cold and you're climbing slowly, bring less if the ice is sticky and and you're most confident with your climbing. Bring four extra if you're building gear anchors (two per station) and maybe bring less if you're climbing a slot canyon with bolts and short pitches. Note: I don't include my mandatory 21cm screw and optional stubbies (10cm) in this count. In regards to length selection, the holding power is the same for 13cm screws and 21cm screws provided the threads are in the same contact with the same ice. This is due to the length of the threads being equal. For this reason, I tend to include more 13cm screws for expediency of placement and a reduction in weight. Longer 16cm screws become valuable when the good ice is buried under a layer of crude or when building anchors. And while expensive, the Petzl Laser Speed Light are worth every penny. In regards to draws, you'll need a mix of quickdraws and alpine draws and maybe a few more than the number of screws packed. The distribution of each should be dictated by the nature of the route. Straight forward routes will probably only required quickdraws but funky, featured or wandering routes will necessitate alpine draws and occasionally double length slings. If you already have a rack of draws for sport or trad climbing I won't try to convince you that you have to purchase a set allocated specifically for ice climbing. However, if one were to ask, the perfect draw for ice climbing is lightweight, easy to manipulate with gloves, long enough to maintain a good rope line if clipped in a hole and wiregate to prevent freezing. However most importantly to me is having a clean, notchless nose on the carabiner to prevent snagging on jacket hemlines. In my humble opinion the three carabiners that have best exemplified these criteria at the Petzl Ange, DMM Chimera and Wild Country Helium. This biner selection applies to both draws and alpines. Left: Black Diamond Freewire Right: Wild Country Helium. Note the notch in the carabiner by the nose. Avalanche Gear Often neglected but quickly and rightly so becoming more popular, certain routes demand appropriate avalanche gear, either on the approach, on route or both. If faced with complex terrain and an unfavorable bulletin, ensure that all parties have a beacon, shovel and probe and know how to use them. Weight is certainly a concern and you will appreciate a lighter option. A shorter probe like the BCA Stealth 240 works well and a small shovel such as the Mammut Alugator Light are a great combination. Many ice climbers like the Peips Micro but any beacon works, just make sure you're familiar with yours and well trained in companion rescue. Beacons must be checked when leaving the vehicle to ensure each one is on and the shovel and probe can be stashed on the sides of your pack’s interior. Make sure they're stored within your bag. Headlamp During short winter days we will regularly begin and end a day of ice climbing in the dark. Make sure you have a bright, reliable headlamp. I prefer a USB rechargeable model like the Petzl Reactik because I never have to doubt the remaining life in my batteries. Cheaper option are the Petzl Tikka or Tikkina, which are powered by AAA batteries (make sure you have a few spares packed). These offer great illumination for an excellent price. Because light is so important, I always keep a tiny 27g Petzl E-Lite+ in my first aid kit as a backup. First Aid Kit, Guide’s Tarp, Emergency Communication Device Most ice climbing locales are in remote, rugged landscapes demanding self sufficiency. It is imperative that your group have the means to address minor medical concerns and manage serious incidents. A well stocked first aid kit for ice climbing should have the means to stop bleeding, splint a broken bone, manage pain, package a victim to keep them warm and prepare for transport and communicate with outside help. A the very least you should have a collection of gauze and bandages, steristrips, medical tape, a small blister kit, pain medication and a way to improvise a splint. Sam or C splints work well but with proper training you should be able to improvise with equipment you already have. A silicone impregnated nylon tarp give you a way to create shelter, make a rescue sled or wrap someone up to keep them warm. A small space blanket helps also. One of the most crucial items to have is a fully charged cell phone. While the temptation always exists to use your phone as a camera, make sure you have enough battery life in case you need to call for help. And should you be outside cell reception, a personal locator beacon or satellite phone can be a literal life saver. The best options, like the Garmin InReach offer two-way communication but the value of a Spot or Fastfind Ranger can not be overstated. Repair Kit A small repair kit specific to your gear is handy. Keep this streamlined and minimal. A spare toe bail, allen keys for your tools and crampons and a small roll of duct tape is probably enough for most problems you'll encounter. Most of these parts can be stowed inside your first aid kit. Avoid carrying a heavy Leatherman or multi-tool and a vast assortment of spare parts. If you break a pick on an ice climbing day trip you're probably going to accept that fact, rappel and go home. Food and Water To keep your metabolic furnace adequately stoked, make sure you regularly consume high calories food throughout the day. Take what you would normally eat for a day of rock climbing and double it. Then add enough calories to fuel you for an emergency walk. Consider choosing food that doesn’t freeze like nuts and hard candies and keep a few bars or snacks in your pocket, close to your body heat, for quick access. Bring enough water to make sure you're staying hydrated. Hydration packs typically don't work well as the hose tends to freeze almost immediately. Insulating a water bottle with bubble wrap works really well. On particularly cold days a small thermos of tea is a welcomed reprieve, particularly when used as a delivery system for copious amounts of added sugar. Personal Supplies A small roll of toilet paper and lighter inside a sealed ziplock bag, contact lenses or glasses if you need them, any personal medications you may require. If you're bringing a camera bear in mind that the cold zaps battery life quickly. Bring spare batteries or keep your camera or phone close to your body for warmth. And even though the days seem short and the sun doesn't feel as intense, make sure you're protecting yourself with sunscreen, lip chap and sunglasses. Keep these near the top of your bag or in your pocket so you don't forget to use them. Clothing and Glove Systems The intricacies of clothing and gloves systems extend far beyond the reach of this simple list, warranting a post unto itself. However, simply summarized we must ensure we're wearing an "action suit" capable of regulating body temperature and moisture at a level of moderate exertion, insulation to facilitate moisture transfer, layers to provide element protection and a belay jacket to dry the layers underneath and retain maximum warmth. A full post can be expected on this topic shortly. Gloves are also highly dependent on conditions and climbers will take anywhere from two to five pairs of varying thicknesses. Some will be thin and dexterous for leading and warm weather while others will be thicker for cold conditions, seconding or rappelling. < Ice Climbing Packing List Mountaineering Boots Technical Crampons Ice Tools Climbing Helmet Climbing Harness with Ice Clippers 30-40L Backpack Belay Device and Locking Carabiner Spare Locking Carabiner Personal Climbing Equipment: Cordelette, Prussik, Anchor Material 21cm Ice Screw, V-Threader, Small Knife, Spare 7mm Tat Ice Screws and Draws (dictated by route) Avalanche Gear (if needed): Beacon, Shovel, Probe Headlamp First Aid Kit Guide's Tarp Communication Device Small Repair Kit Food and Water Toilet Paper and Lighter Sunscreen, Sunglasses, Lip Chap Clothing and Gloves (not covered in this post) Please consider this a starting point to ensure you have all the appropriate items ticked on your ice climbing packing list. If you're in the Bow Valley or shopping online you can get everything on this list right here at Vertical Addiction. If you have any questions or feel there should be anything else added to this ice climbing packing list, please don't hesitate to contact us directly or comment below.
Learn moreSki Touring Repair Kit Essentials
Make sure you have what you need for an enjoyable day out with a well-stocked ski touring repair kit. A full packing list can be found here. And yes, it's light and small! An often overlooked, but critical piece of your backcountry safety gear is your ski touring repair kit. We are all so dependent upon our gear and the places we backcountry ski are usually well off the beaten path, demanding self-sufficiency. It just takes one broken binding and several kilometres of waist deep post-holing in the dark to gain a deeper appreciation of this fact. As with all human-powered activities, what we carry is governed by what we're willing to lug uphill. We need a ski touring repair kit that is multipurpose, light and streamlined so that, if nothing else, we're actually willing to pack it along with us. The following is a very basic repair kit that you can work off of to tailor to your specific needs. Ski Touring Repair Kit Essentials Ski straps Probably the single most important item in your kit and you should consider carrying two in addition to the ones used for your skis in transport. The uses for these are too numerous to list fully but they can be used for major repairs to boot and binding systems, provide temporary solutions to skin glue issues or in the construction of rescue sleds. I've also found them to be extremely useful in improvised splinting of injuries. 500mm ski strap from G3 Small Roll of Tape Everyone will recommend duct tape as the universal solution for anything that is moving and shouldn't be. But the reality is that duct tape can't really fix any of the serious problems you encounter in the backcountry. Its effectiveness is diminished in cold weather and it also loses its adhesive strength over time, requiring regular replacement. I do carry a small roll and supplement that with medical tape from my first aid kit. Many people wrap a few meters around their water bottle or ski pole. For clothing repair, I bring a small plastic pouch containing a few pre-cut strips of Tenacious Tape, which I find holds up better in high flex areas of garments. Pole Splint This is essentially two pieces of curved aluminum, either purchased or salvaged with a hacksaw from an old pole. The splint is placed over the broken pole and secured above and below with small hose clamps. It isn't impossible to ski without a pole but difficult terrain, deep snow or with a heavy pack, it sure isn't fun. Pole basket A pole basket is one of the toughest things to improvise in the field and the pain-in-the-ass factor of skinning without one warrant its inclusion. Be sure it fits your pole, as most brands use a different attachment method, but you can secure one with tape in a pinch. Skin Tail Attachment As it is not unusual for these to fail, consider carrying at least one. You can make a lot of them work between brands but it is best to be compatible, particularly if your skis require special attachments like the G3 Twin Tip. If you're on a longer trip, consider carrying two. Clockwise from top left: Black Diamond Tail Clip, G3 Tail Clip, G3 Twin Tip Skin Tip These are much less likely to fail, but if you have weak glue on your skins or find yourself in a range of variable conditions it is not impossible. Because they're harder to repair you may just want to fix this with a ski strap but longer tours may justify bringing a spare and the tools to swap them out. Screw Drivers Whether you choose a Binding Buddy, a small bit driver or full-sized screwdrivers, it is important to have tools to adjust or repair components of your bindings and boots. Dynafit bindings require a couple of different tools including Torx bits and the common #3 Pozi-drive. Because the G3 Ions only require the Pozi-drive, I limit my tools to a mini keychain driver from them for day trips. On longer trips, I'll bring along a bit driver with a few bits for redundancy and to help out anyone else in my party. The Binding Buddy from Black Diamond includes most of the common sizes but I find the tool to be cumbersome in small spaces and heavy for what it offers. If your ski boots have special screws, its good to have the tools to prevent a loose piece from becoming a lost piece. Scarpa has a neat little tool that adjusts pretty much anything you would require on your Gea/Mastrale boots that doesn't add a lot of weight. G3 Mini Pozi Drive #3 Leatherman/pliers tool For day trips a small multitool like a Leatherman Squirt saves weight but for real repairs, it simply doesn't handle the torque. For longer, more committing tours there simply isn't a substitute for a heavy-duty, full-sized multitool. Ideally, this will include a bit-driver, a file and a wire cutter. Skinwax To prevent wet snow from saturating your skins, keeping the weight down from sticky snow and keep your glide up. This is really noticeable in spring touring or during temperature inversions with a wet snowpack. Black Diamond Glop Stopper is great and you only need a small chunk of the large bar. Black Diamond Glop Stopper Scraper Used mostly to strip icy build up off your skins or top sheets, either a plastic or metal edged scraper will work. These should cost no more than $8 and you can also use the edge of your other ski or some ski poles handles like the BCA Specter if you're trying to carry one less item. Binding Repair and Blowout Kit The likelihood of ripping out a modern binding from a modern ski is quite low. The quality has improved substantially, even over the last few years. Nevertheless, should you be more than a few days walk from civilization a lightweight blowout repair kit may allow you to limp home. For this I would include a few spare screws that are compatible with both your bindings and also the tools you've brought along. It is unlikely that you'll ever blow a binding right off and lose all screws, so four of varying lengths should suffice. A few pinches of steel wool are first inserted into the ripped out hole, filling the space torn out by the screw threads and then filled with a fast setting two part epoxy. A "double-bubble" packet like this one from Tognar handle cold weather well and aren't huge like most plunger style epoxies. I store all of this in a small film canister and the steel wool does an excellent job of preventing a rattle. Unless you're weeks away from help, you don't need to carry a spare toe piece. Bailing Wire When used with a ski strap or two, this can solve almost any binding or boot emergency. A couple feet of stiff wire (approximately 16 gauge), coiled up nice and small will work. Zip Ties Used for reattaching a broken skin strap or refastening a boot buckle, these weight next to nothing. Look for the bigger, beefier ones as the little guys are prone to breaking. Small Pouch The whole kit should fit nicely in a slim pouch or bag, ideally weighing under a pound or two. There is really no need to carry more than one of these repair kits per group. There are a number of items not included in this minimalist kit that you may want to consider, including spare batteries for headlamps or beacons, sewing kits, extra spare parts or tools. It should be noted that this selection is really intended to provide a supplement to your own creative ingenuity to limp back to the trailhead, not fully repair catastrophic damage. A few of the items listed may already be included in your pack, whether in your first aid kit, glacier travel equipment or otherwise. Make sure you customize your own repair kit as needed, ensuring it is comprehensive for your unique needs without becoming excessively heavy or bulky. Most of these items can be sourced from a hardware store and all of the ski-specific gear can be found at Vertical Addiction online or in store.
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