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Canmore's Hardest Multipitch: Don't Rock the Boatswain, 5.14b
A new milestone in the Canmore's Climbing history was achieved yesterday, June 13th 2018. Miles Adamson climbed one of the hardest Canadian multipitch: Don't Rock the Boatswain, 5.14b. This route is located on Grotto Mountain, in Canmore, Alberta. FA of P1-P6: Miles Adamson and Zach Watson, September 2017 FA of P7: Miles Adamson, June 2018 History Zach Watson and I started bolting Don’t Rock the Boatswain in 2012, and it took 5 years to complete. We didn’t get to put too many days into it each year because I lived in Edmonton and was heading to university in BC, and Zach was going to school out east. In September of 2017, we did the first ascent of the first six pitches. They consist of one 5.11, a 13a, and then four 5.12’s in a row. The final roof we bolted was incredibly difficult. When Zach bolted the last couple meters, he wasn’t sure if what he bolted was possible to climb. We were worried that bolts would need to be moved for the line to go, but still I attempted it last year in September. The moves, I could barely do individually, but I knew the line did go but at least at a solid 5.14 grade. Yesterday, I went up again to attempt the roof, and sent it on my 3rd try of the day, for its first ascent. I’ve proposed a grade of 14b, which puts it among the hardest multi-pitch climbs in Canada. The route had to be bolted on lead because the top of the cliff was too dangerous to access from the top of Grotto Mountain. Even if you hiked all the way up the back, there are huge scree slopes above the cliff which might slide on someone trying to walk towards the edge. To bolt, we mostly drilled from free stances. This means we literally just held on with the drill to put in bolts. The drill we would put on a sling clipped to a gear loop. The bolts were attached to quickdraws, with the nut tight onto the hanger so they didn’t fall off. To drill, we just took the drill off when we got a good stance and pressed into the rock where we tested was good with a hammer. The bolt would go in finger tight, just enough to stay there. Then it would get hammered in enough to clip it and take. From there, we would adjust the nut to the end of the bolt to finish hammering it in, tightened it with the wrench and it was done. The hardest parts of the route we had to just go bolt to bolt, by putting in one from a take as high as we could. Challenges Climbing uncleaned rock with a drill was extremely difficult, as we would often need to bash blocks with a hammer before proceeding. We had a plan of where the anchors would be based on what ledges we could see from the ground, but it was still very exploratory. We were trying to bolt up the many roofs and features in a logical way, connecting the best rock without accidently hitting a totally blank or loose section. At one point bolting the 13a pitch, I had passed the hardest terrain and was on an easier section. I did quite a few moves above my last bolt and got a large jug. Really pumped, I went in direct on it with an aid hook. As I started drilling and pressed into the rock, the force out broke the hold I was hooking on. The hold hit me in the helmet and I fell around 6m with the drill in my hands, onto my last bolt. Thankfully, the route is very steep and the fall was clean, even with the drill in my hands. The final roof is very much my style, steep compression needing tension on the footholds. It has several moves requiring heel hooks and toe hooks in the roof to avoid foot cuts on the poor handholds. I had attempted it in September when Zach and I had sent the original line, but could barely do the moves. Zach had no interest in projecting the final roof, but I always had the vision to come back eventually. Over the winter I trained a huge amount, not specifically for this but for a bouldering trip. After the trip, I changed gears to route training. Coming back much stronger than before, I sent the roof pitch on my 3rd attempt of the day. The route is now complete, and Zach has already started bolting a new multipitch to the side. The new line appears to be much easier and should turn out to be a great moderate outing. Don't Rock the what? A Boatswain is a hanging platform attached to an anchor. We made three wooden ones out of 2x12’s and cord. They are still hanging on the route at the anchors with the most uncomfortable belays. Approach Park at the Rat's Net Cave parking area, follow the trail for The Playground/Rat’s Nest Cave for approximately 10 minutes to a fork, on the left, that leads to a powerline. Follow the powerline West, down to where a trail turns right into the forest. Follow this trail and an old road until you reach the drainage below the canyon. Follow the drainage until you reach the route near the base of a ramp angling up and to the right and find the climb, front and center, at the back of the canyon. Pitch 1: 11c/R 12 bolts Attempt to belay this pitch from a protected location like the alcove down and right. Climb through several slabs and a bulge crux. Several moves with bad feet are far above the last bolt and potentially have a fall consequence. Pull a crux after a small roof to a significant run out, leading to a crumbly ledge with the anchor. Pitch 2: 13a 12 bolts Climb the massive flake sitting on the ledge to the first bolt, and continue straight up through amazing rock. The roof has a powerful crux. Above, some tricky sequences lead through a corner and to the anchor. Pitch 3: 12c 19 bolts Climb up and right of the anchor, somewhat above the belay. Then, immediately left through some cryptic climbing to a beautiful corner and finally a difficult slab. The belay is hanging, perfect for boatswains. Pitch 4: 12b 13 bolts Traverse right from the anchor. A large sideways move with poor feet gains you passage past the 2nd bolt. It eases off before another large move, which leads to much easier, but run out terrain above. The 5.10 layback flakes are incredible and lead to the largest ledge on the route. Belay your second from the anchor above the pitch, but traverse left to the anchor on the far side of the ledge to belay the next. Pitch 5: 12b 9 bolts Traverse straight left, past a giant block and some hollow sounding flakes. Continue straight up through a short boulder problem that leads to a corner and mantle to the next anchor. Pitch 6 (Finish of Original Route): 12a 10 bolts The moves at the first and second bolts are the hardest, the second was stick clipped on the first ascent to avoid hitting the ledge. After, it eases and you gain small anchor ledge just below the imposing roof. Pitch 7 (aka Don’t Rock the Boatswain Extension): 14b 16 bolts Traverse left around a sharp arete. Be extremely cautious of your rope tightening on this arete from a fall, extend draws as needed (especially the first 4, which can also be back-cleaned). Move awkwardly into an overhanging corner, and layback it to a good rest. Directly out of the rest, bust out onto the roof with underclings, compression moves and tension. Climb all the way to the lip of the wall past 2 fixed draws and mantle it. Finish by standing on top of the wall. This pitch cannot have an anchor over the lip due to the logistics of the rope tightening over the sharp lip of the wall. To get down, go back to the last fixed draw and lower off of them to clean your gear. Descent To rap the route you need two 70m ropes. From the top of the 5th pitch rap all the way to the top of the 3rd. Avoid rappelling from the large ledge (end of pitch 4) as ropes may get stuck or be very hard to pull.
Learn moreFun Ridge Route in Canmore - Mount Lady MacDonald's West Ridge
Want to be alone on one of the most popular peaks in the area? This route's for you. Here's my trip report with tips on what to bring and what to expect, pitch by pitch. Mount Lady MacDonald is an obvious objective, to say the least. Its summit looms almost 1300 vertical meters over the town of Canmore. The trail up the peak is one of the most popular around, and its ESE ridge is a classic 5.5 that sees more traffic than many of the other routes in the area. Lady Mac's West Ridge, however, sees almost no ascents, which is a shame considering how fun the route actually is. Route Location: Mount Lady Macdonald Time: 8 hours (Stoneworks Trailhead to Cougar Creek parking lot) Style: Alpine Grade II, 5.10a Length: 1200m, 2-4 pitches + lots of scrambling Climbing Gear and Hardware Protection- we brought a single set of Black Diamond Camalots from #00 C3 to #3 C4 and Black Diamond stoppers from #5-#10, however, we only placed a #1 and a #3 C4 on the 5.10a pitch, but we climbed most of the ridge solo. Quickdraws- we brought 4 DMM Alpha Trad quickdraws and 4 Black Diamond Oz Runner Set extendable quickdraws. Rope- Due to the limited info on the route we opted for two Black Diamond 8.5mm half/twin ropes just to be safe, I would recommend a single 60m rope for future parties. Footwear- I wore a pair of 5.10 Guide Tennie approach shoes for the vast majority of the route. I also brought a pair of La Sportiva TC Pro's for the technical pitches; the TC Pro's crack climbing ability was much appreciated on the crux pitch. Helmet- I wore my Black Diamond Vapor, it's lightweight and astonishing breathability makes it the only helmet I seem to use these days. Personal kit- I brought the DMM Pivot with two locking carabiners, a 180cm sling, cordelette, a few extra slings, and a Sterling Hollow block Backpack- I like the Mammut Trion Light due to its clean feature set, great support, and minimal weight. Clothing- I wore the Mammut Courmayeur softshell pant and the La Sportiva Action Long sleeve shirt, I also packed a light down jacket and an emergency rain shell. Extras- I packed a headlamp, a small first aid kit, some bars, water, and a 12" Hungryman Sandwich (Highly Recommended). Mount Lady MacDonald West Ridge Trip Report We parked the car just past Cross Zee ranch (please don’t park directly in front of the ranch) and looked up at the ridge. The entire ridge is visible from the road, so it makes a great spot to do some last-minute studying of the route. We started up the rocky drainage, after a few hundred meters we got on the Stoneworks Canyon Trail, which is marked by a sign on the left side of the drainage. This well-maintained trail meanders through forest parallel to the drainage, this was especially enjoyable in the cool shady morning with the smell of spring in the air. After about a kilometer the drainage turns to the left. We scrambled across the drainage and started to hike straight uphill through the forest heading northeast. There is no trail in this section so some knowledge of off-trail navigation is useful, however, the forest is quite open and low angle. The key to this section is to keep close to the height of the forest between the two drainages. Eventually, the forest thins and the ridge starts to narrow, soon after the scrambling starts, we chose to put our helmets on here. Soon after, we reached the first steeper section of the ridge. Pitch 1 (4th class) This is the first section of proper scrambling on the route, some parties may want to use a rope for this section. Follow the line of least resistance, staying close to the ridge crest, until you reach the top of a small peak on the ridge. Multiple options for anchors. After the first pitch, we descended to a small notch in the ridge and continued to scramble up. We stayed close to the ridge crest, keeping our eyes peeled for a rappel anchor mentioned in the FA's route description. Before we found an anchor, we spotted a short gully leading down the left side of the ridge. This gully turned out to be a 3rd class down scramble that eliminated the need for a rappel. After scrambling to the scree below, we followed it uphill to a bowl beneath the ridge. A large wall forms the top of this bowl. When we reached the wall, we turned left and followed the wall until we found a scree ramp that allowed us to gain a ledge back on the ridge. We followed this ledge back right until we reached the base of a deep corner. Pitch 2 (5.6) This deep corner starts with a couple body lengths of steep interesting climbing (crux), after the steep bit the angle backs off and you can scramble to a large ledge. We climbed this pitch without ropes, but it takes gear great for those who would like to pitch it out. This pitch is quite enjoyable and well protected. A short scramble up the right side of the ridge brings you to a short wall of shattered rock. Pitch 3 (5.2) We climbed up this short section without a rope, watch for loose rock. This pitch can also be avoided by scrambling around on the right side. At this point, we were staring the crux pitch right in the face. The 5.10a pitch is the last obstacle before the glory scrambling at the top. Pitch 4 (5.10a) For this pitch, we brought out the ropes. I jammed my way up the flawless hand crack through the small bulge (crux), after the bulge, the crack widens to fist/offwidth. At this point, I chicken winged my way up the crack until the angle backed off. From here, it is a couple meters of easy climbing before the ledge. At the ledge, I found a tree to sling for an anchor. On this pitch, I placed a #1 camalot and a #3 camalot, but more gear could be placed. From the top of the last pitch, we put the rope away and started scrambling up the beautifully exposed ridge. The route finding is straightforward, just stick close to the ridge crest. After a few hundred meters, we reached the rappel station. The station is a two-bolt anchor, 30 m before a sharp drop in the ridge, if you see a rusty piton, you’ve gone too far! We did the rappel on one 60m rope with lots of rope to spare. At the base of the rappel, we pulled the rope and gunned it back up to the ridge. From here, it is some of the best scramblings I've done. With clean rock, great exposure, and amazing views, this last few hundred meters are a great way to finish the climb. For the final bit, you will top out onto the north ridge and you simply scramble to the summit of Lady Mac. Descent After eating my 12" Hungryman sandwich, we started down. Luckily the descent is straightforward as you are following one of the most popular hiking trails in the Bow Valley. Simply follow the Lady Mac trail down to the Cougar Canyon parking area. This route was a great day out! I would highly recommend it to any solid 5.10 trad leader who wants a different experience than regular multi-pitch climbing, or folks who have done the ESE Ridge and want something a little more challenging. With great climbing, excellent views, and just the right amount of route finding, this route is a fun way to spend a day in the mountains. View of Canmore on the way down, towards the proper hiking trail Bonus tips! Make sure to arrange transportation from the Cougar Canyon parking lot at the end of the day, it is a long walk back to where you started. Bring lots of water, there are no water sources once you leave your car. I would only bring one 60m rope if I were to go back. This route requires you to build your own anchors, be sure you know how to build safe anchors before venturing onto this ridge. Climbing is dangerous and posses inherent risk. It is your responsibility to seek proper instruction from qualified professionals to learn the necessary skills to participate in any of the activities described herein. The information found here is for entertainment and general information purposes only and does not constitute advice, nor is it intended to be educational in any way.
Learn moreEarly Season Rock Climbing - Where to go and what to know
Every winter it's the same, we get crazy cold temperatures for a couple of weeks (a month as of last February), and then out of no where, we'll get a few days or weeks of really nice temperature - usually above 10°C - when you'll see everyone around town get their flip-flops out, and their bikes, and also their ropes in order to hit the nearest crag. In order to help you choose where to go, we did a short list of the crags to check out when the weather gets nice again. One of the biggest asset the Bow Valley offers to climbers is the ability to rock climb almost year round. The rocky nature of the soil around the valley drains any moisture right away. This feature prevents any seepage on most rock faces, the deciding factor on whether or not you can climb is the sun exposure to the rock face. The rule of thumb is, if the sun's out and the air temperature is +/- 0°C most of the sun facing cliffs will be good to go. Obviously, wind chill and the position of the sun over the horizon will affect this rule. Here is a short list of cliffs that are usually dry and warm when weather gets better: Around Canmore Bataan The perfect winter/early spring crag if you can stomach the hike up. The trail will be icy and snow covered lower down in the forest. Echo Canyon Echo has definitely become the premier destination for 5.11 and up climbers and for good reason. Early in the season, the trail might be icy early season, plan on bringing trail crampons. I would not recommend going to the Notch area in Echo. This wall sees almost no sun and is best kept for hot July days. Cougar Creek I've included Cougar Creek here mostly for early spring climbing on the left hand walls has you walk in the canyon. The steep and narrow nature of this canyon prevents it from being a winter destination. The warmest walls are usually Canadian Fork, Cosmology, House of cards and Crowbar. In Kananaskis Country Barrier This Kananaskis crag is a great destination with a relatively short, but steep approach. The cliff sees a lot of late-morning/afternoon sun but keep in mind it can get quite windy. The start of the trail through the trees holds a fair bit of snow so cleats might come in handy. Wasootch Creek It features a flat and short approach and slab walls that see mid-morning/afternoon sun. Banff National Park Guide’s Rock This area features a good variety of single and multi pitch’s routes. Be very mindful, there is a lot of terrain above with a potential of rock fall from snow melt. And please be respectful of the 8 p.m to 8 a.m closure happening from March 1st to June 25th to give the animals the space they need to thrive during the spring season. Sunshine Rock This is a very popular crag because of its very low commitment approach (just go there, you'll see what I mean). It's a great place for a quick session and if you want to make the most of the sun, be there late morning/early afternoon. And keep in mind that there are a lot of trees around the crag so you can find yourself belaying in a bit of snow. Yamnuska The Bowl Area and the East End are steep and hold a lot of heat, making them ideal for early season destinations. Keep in mind that the back side of Yam faces North and therefore holds a lot of snow, plan on rappelling your route. And be careful of falling rocks occuring during the "melts-during-the-day/freezes-at-night" season. If you are new to the area, here is a list of crags that are best kept for summer. Don’t waist your time going there in winter or super early in the spring as it will be in the shades, super cold and most likely seeping cold water: Acéphale, The Notch (Echo), Grassi Lakes, Grotto Canyon, Heart Creek, Lake Louise, the right hand crags in Cougar Creek and Raven’s Crag in Banff. Be aware of potential hazards It's always very important to be mindful of potential overhead hazards. Snow melts well above the cliffs and might dislodge rocks, sending them down your way. If this is a potential hazard of the crag you are choosing, pick a steep wall, wear a helmet and stay as close to the wall as possible. Or avoid climbing there altogether until the snow has melted above. With the freeze/thaw cycle, some of the holds might break off and the crags might be more prone to rock fall. Wear a helmet or avoid an area if you suspect potential rock falls! The weather can change dramatically in the mountains, more so in the spring, Pack extra layers, a puffy jacket, gloves and a hat. These will help make your days and belay duties more enjoyable. Wear proper footwear; you might be able to get away wearing flip flops for some approach’s in July however, it will not be the case early spring. Also, be aware that early season is tick season in the Bow Valley. At the end of your day, make sure to check yourself and your partner for ticks, wear light colored clothing so you can see them more easily and try to avoid bushwaking and sitting in tall grass. That being said, enjoy the warm rock in the sun!
Learn moreA Skaha Guide for Spring Climbing
We get it, you’ve been stuck climbing in the gym all winter. You're tired of the crowds, that weird foot smell that all gyms have, and the feelings of inadequacy as you get smacked around by routes made out of plastic. Suddenly its April, and you're at your breaking point, you NEED to climb some honest to god rock, but it’s spring in the Bow Valley and the weather is rapidly changing from 15°C in the sun to 2°C and snowing . Luckily for you, there is a great alternative; Skaha Provincial Park, a gem in BC’s Okanagan desert. Because this wonderful place known as Skaha Bluffs exists in a desert, the days there are usually warm and dry which makes it a great spot for climbing the early and late season while other areas are still to cold to attend. This collection on gneiss bluffs is home to over 50 crags, hundreds of high quality sport climbs, and some classic trad lines. We know you have so many questions, such as where should I camp? Where should I eat? What should I climb? Luckily, we will answer all these questions and more with this little guide to Skaha! A little history Folks have been exploring the bluffs since the 50’s, but climbing in Skaha didn’t really take off until 1987 when a small group of local climbers started to explore some of the gear protected lines. And in a couple years the first bolts were drilled. Through the 90’s Skaha quickly became the climbing destination in the BC interior. The folks climbing in the bluffs were no longer all locals. Climbers from Squamish and the Bow Valley took notice of the dry weather and long climbing season of the Okanagan desert, which made it an ideal location for early and late season trips. Through the late 90’s and early 2000’s Skaha started to see lots of new lines in the hard grades, with new routes going into the 13’s. This made Skaha a place where climbers could test themselves against some of the hardest routes in Canada. Access had always been an issue at Skaha, and in 2008 the access road was sold and closed to the public. However, the climbing community pulled together and purchased land for a new parking lot, they also convinced private land owners to make the land public to allow the bluffs to be turned into a park. The bluffs were shortly turned into a Provincial Park in 2010, marking an end to the battle for access. When to go The park is open from March 1st to November 15, however these dates can be affected by conditions. Some folks start as early as February but that can be a bit too early depending on how tough you are. Because Skaha is in the desert, it is hot and dry, this means sunny walls in the middle of summer can be a bit too hot sometimes. For this reason it may be better to go in the spring or fall if you want ideal sending temps. It is possible to climb in the summer, the key is to find shady walls during the heat of the day. Where to stay Penticton is home to many hotels for those who don’t want to camp, many of which offer low prices. For those who are more interested in camping, there is a great campsite near Skaha. Banbury Green RV park is on the opposite side of the lake from the bluffs, it offers access to the lake as well as bathrooms and showers, this RV park is a little more expensive but it does offer a rock climbing season rate (check their site for details). There is also the Lake Skaha Tent and Trailer Park right in Penticton, this is closer to the bluffs and you are close to everything in town. Never camp in your car or van on the side of the road, this has been a problem for the city of Penticton, don’t endanger our access to the bluffs to save a couple of bucks. Important Info Skaha Bluff is a Provincial Park, which means the parks website will have current info on any closures or warnings. Be sure to watch out for snakes, there is a lot of them. Not all of them are dangerous but its best to be aware. Also keep all dogs on leash and stay on established trails. Don’t park on the access road. Don’t keep anything of value in your car, there have been some break-ins, park watch patrol the lot so be sure to thank them if you see them. Recommended climbs Brilliant Pebbles: 10c sport, Grassy Glades Ready to Strike: 10a trad, Diamondback Wings of Desire: 11b sport, Great White Cytotoxic: 11a sport, Diamondback> Plum Line: 10a sport, the Fortress Eerily Hanging Out: 11a trad, Great White Assholes of August: 5.9 trad, Red Tail Being There: 11b sport, Morning Glory Sex Machine: 10d sport, the Belfry The Raven and the Bear: 5.9 sport, Ravens Castle Tips to for the first time Skaha goer In summer the sun is your enemy, plan your day around the walls with shade. Book camping early in spring and fall, those are the busy seasons in the bluffs. Check the board in the parking lot for important info, large groups often leave a note of which crag they will be at so other climbers can dodge the crowds. There is no water in the park, so bring your own and bring lots! The park is also popular with hikers who may not be familiar with climbing systems, so be extra vigilant when throwing your ropes. Don’t block the trail with your gear or bags Don’t follow the crowds, everyone seems to want to go to the most classic lines, check out some of the quieter crags, they often have just as high-quality climbing but without the crowds Watch for snakes! These little buggers sometimes hang out on the trail, so watch your step! Blue Tail Salamanders can be found in the park, they are a pretty cool critter so keep an eye out for them. Consider donating to the Park Watch, they ensure that your car is safe while you climb. If times allow, check out one of the many wineries that are around the area and enjoy the fine BC wines Terry's Comfort with Attitude in Penticton makes some DAMN fine breakfast, be sure to stop by there. Finally, if you are going with kids, or if you are a fan of ice cream, you must stop at Ogo's and enjoy their generous ice cream cones! For more information on the Skaha Climbs, be sure to check the Skaha Guidebook and we hope you enjoy your time there!
Learn moreHow to Vanlife
For myself, this [ vanlife ] meant parting ways with a couple vehicles I had spent years getting acquainted with on my cold concrete floor. I had turned every bolt on my drift car, building it from the ground up during the long hours of the night. It was like selling a loved one. Ultimately, the money I got for it was of little value compared to the joy it would bring from the adventures to come. Warm summer nights, driving until eyes are too heavy to go on, and finding a place under the stars to call home for the night. More often than not it’s actually just the surrounding street lamps of a Walmart or some other parking lot, but what’s the difference? Sure the thought of one is usually accompanied by the sounds of busy roads that never cease to sleep, and it’s not the romanticized #vanlife you’re used to seeing on Instagram, but the principle is the same. You are free. What happens when there is no Walmart though and the local law/bylaw enforcement are all over the van community like cats on a crazy lady? What happens when your rolling home stops rolling in the middle of nowhere, and nobody wants to work on your weird obscure Van that you decided was more hipster than a chevy express? The truth is, you will never be fully prepared for life as a cruising hobo, but hopefully through my experiences you can better ready yourself for what may have been an unexpected fiasco. Commit You’ve been twiddling thumbs, reading blogs, and “subtly” making jokes with your partner that you two should live in a van. The truth is all the joking in the world won’t get you anywhere (unless you make it as a stand up on tour, I suppose). So stand tall, take charge, tell them you’ve made the decision to become a hobo, and commence selling all your household items. It can be daunting, but the truth is, if you keep saying it’ll happen when… it likely never will. So don’t wait, create a plan, and execute. For myself, this meant parting ways with a couple vehicles I had spent years getting acquainted with on my cold concrete floor. I had turned every bolt on my drift car, building it from the ground up during the long hours of the night. It was like selling a loved one. Ultimately, the money I got for it was of little value compared to the joy it would bring from the adventures to come. Buying a vehicle The most common one you can! I personally have been blessed/cursed with a strong mechanical aptitude and can fix just about anything. Anything I can readily get parts for that is… After having owned a VW Jetta and realizing VW seems to overthink, under engineer, and have a tendency to do everything different as if they’re being the hipsters of the auto world, I told myself I would never buy another. Despite my better judgement, I came across a cheap VW Eurovan and have regretted it ever since. Older Volkswagens are not known for their reliability, and can be a major headache when you find out VW doesn’t produce parts for older models, and the local part stores can’t get the ones you need for at least two weeks. Older Volkswagens are known however, for having electrical gremlins that tend to come and go at their own discretion. Not with hot or cold extremes, with certain time frames, or anything of the sort, but completely at random, leaving you stuck at the nearest McDonald’s for an hour or twenty (true story). Had it been a Chevy or a Ford any part store would’ve had a pile of parts ready to fit a number of vehicles at half the price, any local tech would be able to tell me about any obscure problem that came up, and your average socket set would work (that’s right, Volkswagens don’t even use your typical socket/wrench sizes).So choose wisely. If I had to do it again (which may be soon, since the old Eurovan gave her last breath at the end of last summer) I would buy the biggest mainstream van my budget allowed, or better yet an RV! The reality is, no van you buy is stealthy in today’s day and age. With vanlife becoming such a trend you can almost guarantee someone is living in every Volkswagen, and unmarked cargo van you see, meaning you’ll be about as discreet as a bag of chips opening during a horror movie. You’re not fooling anyone. Which leads to my next point. Shacking up When evening rolls around and it’s time to hit the sack, hopefully you’ve already scoped your parking spot under the stars (or street lamps). Many areas will have cheap or even free camping of some sorts, most often located just outside town, making for a peaceful place to hunker down for the night. If that’s not the case, you can almost always find a place in town among fellow vanlifer’s to sleep. You may nestle in between a couple campers at Home Depot, or a row of RV’s at Walmart. If you’re in a larger area, most of the time a large parking lot somewhere will be filled with fellow transients, or the elderly, traversing the country in their rental motorhomes. A few times we have rolled into the local Walmart and been turned around by “no overnight parking” signs however. Now what? As I mentioned above, no matter how stealthy you think your van may be, you have no cognito! You really have no option but to park illegally at this point. So my advice is to use common sense, be courteous, and as low key as possible. Get ready, brush your teeth, put your jammies on, and close the curtains before finding your spot for the night, so all you have to do is crawl back into your bed once you get there. Continuing your etiquette from the night before, crawl into the driver seat and peace out bright and early, giving anyone in the community no reason to cause a stink about you degenerates living on their streets. To this day, we have yet to be disturbed or asked to relocate. Use your discretion and park smart. Food Finding somewhere to dine is not such a big deal. We’ve always found a local park or such, with a large area for people to have picnics, which make for a great place to set up the stove and have your meals. As an added bonus, these places are usually quite nice and make for an enjoyable place to chow down. I’ve been bombarded with questions concerning diet, assuming we must be starving ourselves, living off ramen and dumpster buns from behind Micky-D’s. Quite honestly, the lack of running water for dishes has done wonders for my diet, as the meals have been simplified from big saucy conglomerations, down to simple wholesome foods that require minimal preparation. However, on the note of no running water, a good nonstick pot/pan combo will make your life much easier. Coffee If you are anything like me, coffee is life. Coffee fuels my ambitions, my creativity, even this blog (so if it starts sounding robotic, you know it’s time for a coffee break). Some evenings I want a coffee so bad, I can’t wait to sleep so I can wake up and start the morning brew. With that being said, I’ve attempted multiple methods and figured which are good, okay, and a total pain in my ass. We started with the collapsable pour over from Sea to Summit in the name of saving space, but due to the lack of running water, we found it to be a hassle to rinse the grounds out of it without wasting water (remember this is limited). With two of us in the van, it was also rather slow to get two cups from the one pour over. This lead to the purchase of a percolator, the bain of my existence. Maybe I never perfected this contraption, but the coffee was always so dirty, you could chew it and pick the grounds out of your teeth after, or so weak you didn’t know whether to take pity on it, or threaten it for it’s lunch money. Again, mega pain for cleaning grounds after. A few devices later, we threw in the towel and started buying coffee or going without, until we discovered the Aeropress! This wonderful little do-hicky will go from zero to brewed in 20 seconds flat, and cleaning is as easy as popping the puck of grounds into the garbage and giving a light wipe when you’re finally caffeinated enough to pass as a normal human being again. In my eyes there are only two choices for van coffee: an Aeropress, or zombie mode. One should not need a cup of coffee just to gain the motivation needed to brew more. Hygiene Don’t be gross. When people think of van dwellers and tree planters, the thought is usually accompanied with ratty hair, dirty clothes, and B.O. that packs a harder punch than Mike Tyson. In the planter’s defence, they’re typically working the long hard days of summer in the middle of nowhere. Van dweller’s, on the other hand, have no excuse for having odors offensive enough to clear a room when there are clearly so many options for staying as squeaky clean as the rest of society. When it comes to showers, it really varies from area to area, ranging from two bucks at the YMCA to six dollars at a local campsite. Depending on the days activities, you’ll find you may not need a shower every day, but if these options are still too saucy for your dwindling bank account, do everyone within a five-hundred metre radius a favour and grab some eco friendly soap and have an ice bath in one of the surrounding rivers/lakes. On the other hand, if you’re having a rest day and want to splurge, hit the local swimming pool for a soak, swim, or steam room session and take advantage of their facilities. When it comes to laundry, it can get quite expensive. For the two of us it can be up to twelve bucks for a laundry day. A cheaper option has been the Scrubba Wash bag. It’s essentially a dry bag with a patch of rubber fingers on the inside for hand washing. It works fantastic! Its biggest downfall is its capacity being limited to about a two-three shirts and a pair of pants, followed by hang drying, which in a van, can take a long time and is limited in space as well. So doing laundry often is key, but in the end can save you some extra coin and keep you from looking like the hobo you are. These are just a few of the basics of living the life on the road. Sure I could include how to make bank, ball on a budget, or what to do during a relationship crisis when your living space is the size of the shared mattress (awkward… and no, walking out is a definite no no!), but this post would take ages to read, so perhaps another time. Hopefully this will help for those who are just starting out in their new life of adventure, or encourage others to take the leap, as doing so is not as bad as it can seem at first.
Learn moreClimbing with kids - Family fun at the crag
If there is one thing climbing parents can’t wait for, besides a real good night sleep, is the first time they will get their little ones on the rock. My kids are now in their teens, so I decided to use my journey to help you benefit from the things that went well and hopefully, help you avoid the things that did not go so well. Every climbing parent dreams of the day their kid will put up the draws for them on their project or become the most reliable alpine climbing partner ever. The moment you realize you are that much closer to get a new rope gunner. My goal in introducing my kids to climbing was so that we could go out climbing as a family and hopefully go on road trips together. And because I believe that climbing also teaches a good lesson on setting goals and working through adversity to achieve them, I thought that learning that while having fun on the rock could be good them. On a trip to Kamouraska The most important thing we must remember as parents is to make climbing fun and enjoyable for kids. I know sometimes, as grown-ups, we take our climbing objectives very seriously. But for kids it has to be fun. When going climbing with little ones, as with all other outings, you are on their schedule. They may be keen to climb for a couple hours or they may get bored after half a climb; we must remember that as parents, we are playing the long game. We want them to fall in love with climbing and be in it for the long haul. If we impose a rigid schedule of what we think a full day of climbing should be, we will most likely burn them out. It’s OK if our little ones prefer playing in the creek or chasing bugs for a good part of the day while the adults climb. After all, the dirtier they are, the more fun they had, right?! Keeping them safe in a potentially dangerous environment can not be overstated. Kids do not understand all the objective hazards that climbing entails. It is our job, as parents, to mitigate those risks. Keeping them at a safe distance of the wall when not climbing, having them wear a helmet when on or close to the rock and also choosing a crag that has a mostly flat ground are just a few things I recommend. Harnesses can be ackward, so one thing we did to make our kids get used to the gear and wearing a harness was to set up zip lines in the backyard, or when we were out camping. They absolutely loved it and then did not have a problem with tying up on the rope when at the crag. But even if they were fine wearing the harness, the skill that seemed hard for our kids to grasp was sitting in the harness and being lowered. Climbing was fun and kept them focused, but when they reached their high point, they realized how high they were and sometimes became gripped. After one or two "crisis situations", we made them climb up about 2 meters from the ground and allowed them to swing side to side, practicing different position and how they could brace themselves using their legs. Practicing walking backward is also easier to do when close to the ground, where adults can more easily coach the young climbers and help them if needs be. Climbing equipment for kids Depending on the height and weight of the child, you may want to get her started in a full body harness. This type of harness has a higher tie-in point and prevents the little climber from flipping upside down. Usually, once kids reach 30 kg, they will transition into a kids sit harness. Kids climbing shoes are not a must but rubbing running shoes against the rock will destroy any footwear that does not have a protective rubber rand. Kids climbing shoes should be sized to limit heel movement but at the same time should be comfortable for little ones. You can start them in a bigger pair that they’ll wear with socks and remove the socks when their little feet grow. Remember, its all about making this fun and enjoyable for kids, performance shoes can come later. A climbing helmet is a good idea for everybody, especially kids who are not fully aware of potential dangers like rock falls. Bike helmets are better than no helmets at all, but keep in mind that they are not design or certified to protect the user against falling rocks like a climbing helmet is. In order to keep your little crusher entertained, make sure to bring a lot of toys, books and snacks. Kids rarely have the attention span to stay focused on climbing the entire day. You will have a longer climbing session if you can manage to keep the little ones entertained while outside. Once they are done with climbing, they may appreciate toys, books or just building dams in the creek. Going out with other families or as part of a large group is also always a good idea. It makes looking after kids a lot easier than if you are only going out as a couple. In this situation, the belayer has double duties, keeping the climber safe and looking after the kids. Not an ideal situation. The minimum ratio should be at least 3 adults for 1 to 3 kids. And well, sometimes you go on a road trip to Smith Rocks and end up at the Seattle Aquarium because everything you had planned, did not go as expected, and it is still ok. How about you This entire post has been focused on the kid’s experience. I would like to finish this with a bit of wisdom that was passed down to me by someone way wiser than I can ever wish to be: "Even if, for now, it may seem that you have no time to do the things you really love, like skiing and climbing. You must find the way and time to stay fit. " Even as new parent, we must fight each day to stay active and not let atrophy wins. One day you will regain some control over your life and again be able to go play outside. When that day comes, you have to be ready to hit the ground running. And if the day doesn't go as planned, take a deep breath, play in the dirt with your kid for a little while, maybe open a beer, and try again later!
Learn more10 reasons to NOT try Ice Climbing
If you are thinking about trying out ice climbing this winter, we want to make sure you can take an informed decision. That's why we've decided to make a list of 10 reasons NOT to try ice climbing. Hope you enjoy it! Winter in the Canadian Rockies is a beautiful thing, with white snow blanketing the ground and refreshing cool (but not too cold) temps it's hard not to wholeheartedly love this winter wonderland. With many fun things to do in the winter, such as telemark skiing, curling, and drifting your car around the Safeway parking lot, why would anyone want to go ice climbing? Luckily for you, the researchers here, at Vertical Addiction, have come up with 10 reasons why no one should ever climb a frozen waterfall. 1. It's cold Many ice climbers will tell you that ice climbing can be quite comfortable while your bundled up in layers of high-tech fabric designed to keep you warm in the most inhospitable condition, but don’t be fooled!! Even with the toasty double layer insulation of a jacket like the Black Diamond Stance Belay parka, you will be borderline hypothermic for the duration of your climb. Not to mention your poor feet. Did you really think that huge double boots designed for expeditions would keep your feet warm? Well think again, those massive boots can't hold a candle to the brutal cold of ice climbing. 2. It's not pretty These ice climbing kooks will tell you about the unspeakable beauty of ascending a crystal-like tower in the middle of jagged snow capped peaks, but how can ice be beautiful? Have you ever slipped and fell on an iced-up sidewalk and said: “Wow look how pretty this ice is!”? NO, so why would a 100m high sheet of smooth blue ice be any different. The scenery is also not a good reason to do this masochistic activity. Sure, you sometimes get to see breathtaking vistas and cool canyons with ice pouring down the walls, but you can also see that on the internet, or from your car on the Icefields Parkway. Checkmate ice climbers! 3. It's hard to learn Some things are easy to learn, like riding a bike or rocket science. Ice climbing is not one of those things. It is almost impossible to figure out how to climb even the easiest ice. No amount of modern gear and Youtube videos will give you any idea of how to ascend a curtain of ice. Well what about taking a course? I’m glad you asked. Besides the dozen companies running regular intro to ice climbing courses in the Canmore/Banff area, there is almost no way to learn how to swing an ice tool. Photo Courtesy of: On Top Mountaineering Guiding Company 4. It's not a social sport With some sports, like snow fort making, you get to hang around cool like-minded individuals. In ice climbing however, you only get to hang out with your closest friend, that you trust with your life, and if you're really lucky you are around other parties that just want to have fun and share a common goal, just as you. Not very social huh? But what happens if you go ice and mixed cragging at one of the many easy-access crags in the Bow Valley? Chances are there will be other folks there that will help you push your limits and enrich the whole experience, that doesn’t sound very fun to me! Photo courtesy of: Yamnuska Moutain Aventure 5. It's not fun I know what you're thinking; what could possibly be fun about swinging ergonomic high-tech ice axes and kicking sharp crampons to climb a pillar of blue ice? Nothing, not a thing is fun about this. Who, in their right mind, would find navigating an ocean of steep ice fun? Nobody, that’s who. Even bolted mixed climbing isn't that fun; how could someone have fun pushing their physical and mental limits in a relatively safe and low-pressure environment? They can't, that’s how. Anyone who says they enjoy ice climbing are just trying to fool you into joining them. 6. It's not rewarding A lot of folks will tell you that pulling over the top of a climb that you’ve wanted to do for a long time is one of the most rewarding things you can do. I’ll tell you what's rewarding, looking back on the well shoveled driveway that you just slaved over for the last 3 hours. Pushing your limits and accomplishing things you never thought possible, like climbing a grade of ice for the first time, is just not worth it. No end can justify the means of ice climbing. 7. It can only be done in the winter So this sport can only be done in winter? Gee! winter in Canada is only 7 months long, not a very long window to climb in if you ask me. For example, you can rock climb all year round with ease and reasonable comfort, trust me on this. But ice climbing in cozy layers is a lot less enjoyable than grabbing onto little frozen rock edges with your exposed fingers. Besides, why waste a good season of snowball fighting to climb some silly icicles? 8. You won’t get to see any cool places Ice climbing typically takes place in some pretty boring places, unlike snowshoeing that allows you to roam the mountains and visit some very cool areas. Here are some places that you won't be able to ice climb: large caves, breathtaking mountain faces, and backcountry waterfalls. Ice climbers just spend their time in dark boring canyons. Any stories you’ve heard about underground ice or backcountry flows the size of buildings are just greatly exaggerated! 9. No cool gear When you go bouldering in the gym, you get to use cutting edge gadgets to help you succeed like brushes, chalk bags, and tape. When you go ice climbing, you don’t get any cool gadgets, just state-of-the-art carbon fiber ice tools and super light technical crampons with forged components. Lame right?!? 10. Because a list you found on the Internet said so We, at Vertical Addiction, realize that the decision to ice climb or not is a hard one, so that’s why we did the thinking for you! Ice climbing is cold and hard, and nobody should do it. Just trust us on this one, OK? We promise this isn't a tactic to protect our secret WI2, three hours from the road. Nope, not at all. Just forget I mentioned it, and keep doing fun things this winter like drinking hot chocolate and drytooling. Bonus reason THE SCREAMING BARFIES! *Disclosure: Ice climbing is actually pretty cool. To be honest, we are just messing with you! And if you wanted to learn more on the equipment you need to bring to make the most of your ice climbing day, you can read this article.
Learn moreMixed Master Ascent
Mixed Master is one of the finest mixed climb of its type in the Rockies. This ultra-classic route has been on my list for a while now and I was incredibly excited to have the chance to jump on it in challenging conditions . Mixed Master is one of the finest mixed climb of its type in the Rockies. This ultra-classic route has been on my list for a while now and I was incredibly excited to have the chance to jump on it in challenging conditions with local crusher Niall. We attempted to get on the route a week earlier but found a jackknifed transport truck blocking the highway after getting stuck trying to illegally drive the 93 North to Jasper. On attempt number two we were able to get on in great conditions. Mixed Master Location Icefield Parkway Date February 2018 Style Ice, Mixed Grade IV, WI 5, M4-5, 5.8 Length 300m, 4-7 pitches Topo from Joe Josephson's now out of print book. The following gear photos were taken a week prior to our successful climb and we made a few slight changes based on the anticipated conditions (read: colder) but for the most part, the equipment used was as follows: Climbing Gear and Hardware Screws - Expecting a lot of thin ice, we brought extra stubbies and heavily favored the shorter length of Petzl Laser Speed Light screws. Our selection was 10cm x2, 13cm x6 and 17cm x4 plus a 21cm for V-threads. Rock Gear - A single rack of cams to 3" with doubles of mid sizes and a handful of nuts. In thin conditions, a few thin knifeblades would have been helpful but not required. The rack shown here was replaced by a full collection of Totem Cams with doubles of the midsizes. Draws - Alpine draws x6 and quickdraws x6. All were equipped with Petzl Ange carabiners, which have my vote for the best alpine carabiner on the market. We had a single Cassin load limiter draw, which was helpful on thin ice. Could have used a few more long slings. Ropes - We climbed on my 57m Petzl Salsa 8.2mm half ropes and the length was fine. Had we brought 70m ropes it would have enabled us to link a pitch or two differently but it would have meant more rope handling most of the time, I chose to climb with dual point crampons (Cassin Alpinist Pro) as the mixed terrain was not overly challenging and didn't necessitate monos. The recent dumping of snow reaffirmed this choice. Cassin X-Dreams with mixed picks. I like to use the Petzl V-Link umbilicals on multipitches. Harness - Arc'Teryx 395AR with four DMM Vault ice clippers. This is my go-to harness for ice and i like the option of clipping my tools to a nearly indestructible clipper like the DMM's for varied climbing. Helmet - Petzl Sirocco (older style) - Not winning any beauty competitions with this thing but I love the weight and it trust it implicitly. Personal Kit - Petzl Reverso with two lockers (old style Petzl Hera and DMM Phantom), two extra lockers (new style Petzl Hera), cordelette bundle and Sterling Hollowblock, a anchor kit and v-thread supplies. This packing list can be found here. Small First Aid Kit, tiny repair kit, one liter of water, a few bars and some nuts. Since we geared up at the car I was able to fit everything I needed to carry into a 26L pack. Today's Rack: All Totems Clothing System It was freezing in the parking lot (-27C) and I did the short approach in a pair of synthetic puffy pants. Being shaded most of the day with bluebird skies meant balancing cold in the shadows and warm in the sun. I chose to balance this dichotomy by layering heavily with active insulation. Boots - Scarpa Phantom Tech's. These are my go-to for ice and mixed climbing. I threw a pair of adhesive toe warmers on first Socks - Single pair of Bridgedale Mountain. If it was a longer, harder approach I would bring a second pair and change at the base. Baselayer Lowers Pants - I typically climb ice in softshells. It was a little cold in the wind but fine when moving. Had there been more snow on this route I could have opted for hardshells. Baselayer Upper Midlayer Soft Shell - This lived in the pack for the day. Belay Jacket - I originally opted for a synthetic because I assumed the route would be snowy but ended up lending this jacket to my partner who was cold and wore my Down Jacket. I was happy to have the extra warmth. Extra Insulation - I run cold so usually throw in an extra puffy in case of emergency. This time it was the Outdoor Research Cathode. Mine is the older style with the stretchy side panels and it breathes well enough to wear under a shell, as well as over. I ended up climbing in this as my shell for the day. Glove System - I usually bring more than I need. Today I packed two pairs of Black Diamond Arcs for leading, Outdoor Research Aretes for seconding and Black Diamond Enforcers for rappelling. Mixed Master Trip Report We parked at the plowed roadside pullout, as per Weeping Wall, geared up at the car and walked couple hundred meters north on the road to the obvious start of the route, where we were already second in line as another party was beginning the upper pitches. It should be noted that the ravens have grown accustomed to human interactions are extremely bold and crafty. I wouldn't recommend leaving anything at the base of this route, regardless of how secure you think it is. Leave it at the car or take it with you. Pitch One (WI3) - The Scottish Gully type feature was thin, rock hard and we had no trouble finding good protection We broke up the pitch by belaying off the first of the two belay stations. Pitch Two (WI4ish) - The ice was thinner in spots and climbed more like a mixed pitch with stemming on rock and occasionally hooking and torquing in cracks. Protection was mostly 13's with a few tens. The second half had a really fun overhang that was well hooked out and protected with 17's in bomber ice. I stretched it about 55m to the mini amphitheater atop and belayed off bolts. Pitch Three and Four (WI2-3) - We traversed straight right to comfortable, sheltered cave. On arrival, we realized we should have just linked these two and continued up the short section of low angle ice where we belayed off a two screw anchor in another comfortable cave. Pitch Five (5.8) - Traversing back left onto rock terrain was a little tricky as the sun just hit the pitch and the snow began to slide off the rock. It was a little slabby but the protection was easy to find with a rack of Totem cams. There were lots of little flared pockets that seemed custom made for these. A single rack to 2" would have been fine but since we had a #3 it got placed. The gully above felt much more like alpine with the deep snow trudging and there were a few pins to be found. The station was bolted and easy to find. Pitch Six (M4) - Easy, low angled climbing on thin ice with almost entirely rock pro. Belayed from a tree high above. We unroped and scrambled up 60m of kicked out snow and a few small ice ramps to a bolted station at the base of the final pitch. Pitch Seven - (WI5, M6ish) - The ice was non-existent on the bottom section, making for a scrappy mixed start. There were two pins (a bomber baby angle and horizontal Lost Arrow) on route but we found a great purple Totem on the right and a perfect red pulling over the mantle to the start of the ice. The ribbon of ice itself was thin, hooked out and insecure but really fun. A bomber green cam on the side wall really helped as the ice really only took 10's and 13's. Descent - Five easy raps brought us right back to the staging area without difficulty. There are a few spots with belay stations that could cause confusion but we only used the stations we belayed off on the way up. When we reached the ground we found that the group below us had left their packs and raven had ripped them to shreds looking for food. Another reminder not to leave anything at the base. With the cold start, thin ice gullies, mixed protection and a spicy finish, Mixed Master has plenty of character. Even though you can see your car from just about any point during the climb it is an excellent training day for bigger objectives and has the feel of an old-school alpine climb. You aren't throwing Figure-4's off enhanced holds in a cave on sport draws. This is an excellent way to develop your mixed climbing skills and a highly recommended route.
Learn moreCoire Dubh Integrale - Trip Report
All in all, this route makes for a great day out moving up snow and ice slopes, with a chance to swing some tools and place some rock gear along the way. (read time: 6 min) Ice, trad, route finding, and a true summit to top off the 700m day. For some of us, time spent honing our skills at the crags are in preparation for days like these. With low to moderate difficulty, a wide range of necessary skills needed, and a full day adventure, Coire Dubh Integrale makes for a great introduction to alpine climbing. Route Location: Loder Peak, Alberta Time: 7.5hrs, car to car Style: Alpine Grade III, W3 5.7 Length: 700m, 2-5 pitches Climbing Gear and Hardware Screws - 5x13cm ,1x16cm, and of course the 21 cm bailout/v-thread screw. We chose a smaller rack of Petzl Laser Speed ice screws, only expecting one real pitch of WI3 with options for anchors at the top. Rock Gear - A single rack of camalots to 3", as well as a set of nuts. Draws - Alpine draws x3 and quickdraws x6. Due to the nature of some rock placements, I would’ve preferred more alpine draws than quickdraws. Rope - With no plans to rappel the route we opted for a 60m Sterling Nano 9mm, which evidently would’ve been fine in the event that we had to bail. I climb in Cassin Blade Runner crampons as I am a fan of the fit, and just how versatile they are with the option of dual, mono, or even horizontal front point configurations. I opted to keep them in a dual point set up for the added stability on ice and snow, confident mono would be unnecessary for the rock section. DMM Apex’s were the weapon of choice for the day. Versatile and burly. What else could I ask for? Petzl Adjama harness, with Petzl Caritools. Helmet - The Black Diamond Vapor. Save some weight, make a fashion statement, and show everyone just how many times you’ve bumped your head or dropped your helmet as it seems to mark easy, but its light, it breathes, and for a climbing helmet it looks half decent Personal Kit - Petzl Reverso with two lockers, two extra lockers, cordelette bundle and personal prusik, an anchor kit and v-thread supplies. This packing list can be found here. Extras - Headlamp, small First Aid Kit, hand warmers, tiny repair kit, one liter of water, a few bars and some dried fruit. Pack - My personal day pack of choice has been the Osprey Mutant 28 for almost a year now. I’ve found it to be the perfect medium between a lightweight minimalist pack, and one that’s overloaded with unnecessary features that seldom see use. It carries weight well, has a helmet and rope carry, can carry skis in an a frame, but can be stripped down to shave weight, and seems to be the perfect size for a days worth of gear and my DSLR. Coire Dubh Integrale Trip Report There was no big surprise when we forced our doors open into the full force of the prairie winds that seem to frequently sweep the area along the front ranges. Parking in the paved lot across from the landfill, about 2 km or so east of Exshaw, we started our early morning approach with hoods over our heads, and lamps illuminating not much more than clouds of dust being thrust in our face by the wind, hoping conditions might be better in the shelter of the drainage we were heading for. For the approach, walk across the road and head towards the landfill, taking the climbers trail along the east side of the fence and around the back side of the landfill. Head NW from there on what should be a well-established trail, making sure not to turn off too early and head into the wrong drainage (this seems to be a common occurrence). Pitch One (WI3) - 25m. This pitch forms fat and wide offering some steeper ice up the center or some more mellow WI2 options on the sides. Though the rest of the climb didn’t seem to see any sun, this first pitch was getting the full brunt of the sunrise, which was evident as it reminded me of the same rotten ice you’d get on something like melt out. The top out has multiple anchor options. Photo: Taylor Sullivan Making a few mountaineer coils, we decided to simul-climb the next couple hundred meters to the rock pitch, as it mainly consisted of boot-packing wind packed snow with the odd bit of rambling ice throughout. We reached a short step of WI2 ice that was about 8m or so just below the rock pitch. We decided to carry on simul climbing through this, however, some may decide to pitch it out deciding on comfort level. Pitch 2 (5.7) - 30m Climb the left facing corner at the right of the face to a tree anchor. Not being a strong mixed climber, this was the pitch that had me anxious, however, it really never felt more than 5.7 with crampons on. This low angle slab is full of pockets and features that make climbing with gloved hands or tools a breeze. A few nuts and a few cams protected this pitch well. A short scramble to the left of the climb brought us to the next snow-covered scree slope. Having not planned to take the direct route, we headed right up some more rambling ice and snow. A couple hundred meters later, we saw our obvious exit through a gully to our left. Our topo described this section as a climb, however, a short stemming section that could’ve made its way into a guidebook of scrambles brought us onto a final scree slope to the summit ridge. Descent The descent was pretty straightforward, scrambling the ridgeline to gain the summit of Loder Peak, and following the obvious hikers route down to the highway. Though the drainage gave shelter from the earlier mentioned winds, be prepared to meet them again on the ridge as it is notorious for being extremely windy most of the time (this becomes quite evident when looking at the trees missing their western branches). Leaving a second car at the bottom of the descent may seem pointless at first, but future self will thank you after the long walk off the summit. All in all, this route makes for a great day out if you’re looking to try your hand at becoming the next (less extreme) Ueli Steck, with all of its fast-paced (depending what kind of shape you’re in) moving up snow and ice slopes, with a chance to swing some tools and place some rock gear along the way. As an added bonus, climb later in the week and head down the road to the Stoney Nakoda Casino for their dinner buffet to recover all those lost calories afterward.
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