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Ice Climbing Packing List - The Essentials
An in-depth ice climbing packing list with gear suggestions, product reviews and a downloadable check list to ensure you have all the essential gear for your next ice climbing adventure. ( 15 minutes read ) Ice climbing is a very gear-dependent sport. Technical, athletic movements in a harsh, unforgiving environment demand a delicate balance of precision and protection from the elements. Having unsuitable equipment for ice climbing can quickly turn a great day into the mountains into an epic. Below I've listed the ice climbing packing list that I follow every time I'm packing my bag. Please note I have not included ice climbing clothing systems as this is a topic for another post unto itself. Every effort was made to include variances and the rationale for their inclusion. Ice Climbing Packing List Mountaineering Boots Warm, stiff, insulated mountaineering boots are the most essential component of your technical gear, with fit being paramount. They must be voluminous enough so as not to restrict blood flow whilst ensuring your heel remains firmly planted. Make sure your have enough space that you do not bash the front of your toes when kicking. For general ice climbing consider single leather mountaineering boots such as the Scarpa Mont Blanc or the La Sportiva Nepal Cube GTX. These provide a fine compromise between weight, price, warmth and durability. The fit is considered rather neutral and they are excellent for long approaches on varied terrain. La Sportiva Nepal Cube, Scarpa Mont Blanc GTX For those who run a little colder, supergaiter boots such as the Scarpa Phantom Tech or the La Sportiva G5 provide additional warmth and element protection by encasing a single leather boot with a waterproof gaiter. This combination allows for a warm, lightweight boot with plenty of mobility. These boots climb and walk fantastically while keeping your toes very warm but are expensive and less durable than a general mountaineering boot. La Sportiva G5, Scarpa Phantom Tech For the coldest days when you probably shouldn’t be ice climbing, double boots are often the only solution. These feature a removable inner boot and a protective outer for the greatest combination of warmth, albeit usually with a serious weight penalty. While double plastic boots like the Scarpa Inverno have been the standard for a long time, newer boots like the Scarpa Phantom 6000, La Sportiva G2SM, Arcteryx Acrux AR and Mammut Nordwand 2.1 now utilize lightweight materials to create a boot that is barely heavier than a single leather boot. These are generally overkill for most days but anything below -20C and these become a very welcomed option. La Sportiva G2SM, Scarpa Phantom 6000, Mammut Nordwand 2.1 Crampons Your crampons must be purpose-built for ice climbing and fit well to your boots. This means a firm pressure is required to latch the heel lever, minimal space exists between the heel posts and the forefoot of the boot is in complete contact with the front piece of the crampon. While it is possible to use hybrid style crampons, fully automatic are the standard. The most popular choice for pure waterfall ice climbing is a dual vertical front point configuration. This allows for ample purchase and stability in the widest range of conditions. These can be fixed front pieces as found on the Grivel G22, Cassin Alpinist Pro or Petzl Dart. While they are generally the lightest option, the front points are not replaceable. Dual Points with replaceable front points, such as the Petzl Lynx, Black Diamond Cyborg, Grivel Rambo 4 and G14 or the Cassin Bladerunner allow easy swapping of broken or worn front points but that added hardware ups the weight. Most of these will also allow you to switch to a monopoint configuration. Cassin Blade Runners, Petzl Lynx, Black Diamond Cyborg Monopoints are the best option for technical ice, mixed climbing or fragile conditions where the increased surface area of dual points would displace too much ice. These offer a level of precision generally not possible with dual points but sacrifice the stability as there is less metal in contact with the ice. They will also not provide a lot of confidence in chandeliery, aerated ice. Like the dual points, they come in both fixed (such as the Grivel G20 and Petzl Dart) or replaceable (like the Black Diamond Stingers) variations. Lastly, and often discredited as a mountaineering tool, alpine crampons with horizontal front points offer increased surface area in soft conditions, acting as miniature shovels. While they require an exaggerated heels-down leg swing, with proper use they are less prone to sheering in variable snow and ice conditions. What differentiates this style from the general mountaineering crampons is largely the orientation of the secondary points. Crampons such as the Black Diamond Sabretooth Pro, Petzl Sarken or Cassin Alpinist are designed with aggressively forward facing secondaries to secure foot placements with easy. These often outperform duals or monos in low angle terrain. Petzl Sarken, Black Diamond Sabertooth Pro, Cassin Alpinist Ice Axes One of the most vehemently debated topics of gear discussion are ice axes. People tend to chose their favorites and argue their merits without reserve. While all tools have their unique pro's and con's, generally speaking, they can be divided into two broad catagories: All-round or alpine ice tools and steep ice tools. While both will work well on a variety of terrain they are each optimized to excel under certain conditions. All-round or alpine ice tools can be characterized by having a slightly bent shaft, moderate pick angle and a plunge-able spike. It is not uncommon to see tools of this sort equipped with one hammer and one adze attachment but for pure waterfall ice it is preferable to remove the adze for safety reasons. These make for an excellent tool for beginners and advanced climbers alike and the moderate pick angle make them ideal for lower angled terrain. It should be noted that because these tools have a smaller pommel and a less economical grip they pose a challenge on very steep terrain. Popular options include the Petzl Quark, Cassin X-All Mountain, Black Diamond Viper or Cobra and the DMM Apex. Top To Bottom: Cassin X-All Mountain, Black Diamond Cobra, DMM Apex, Black Diamond Viper, Petzl Quark Steep ice or mixed climbing tools differ by having a steeper pick angle and generally an offset grip, optimizing the position for steep to overhanging terrain. They offer a variety of grips for switching hand positions and are the ideal choice for complicated terrain. These usually remove a plunge-able spike from the bottom because that same widened pommel that allows for a more comfortable resting position also increases the difficulty of plunging. Additionally, the steeper pick angle is designed to penetrate the ice with a snap of the wrist while the handle is close to the ice. This makes moderate terrain more difficult to gain purchase. In recent years the Cassin X-Dream has grown exceedingly popular but other excellent options include the Petzl Nomic, Grivel Tech Machine, DMM Switch and Black Diamond Fuel. Top to Bottom: Petzl Ergo, Cassin X-Dream, DMM Switch, Black Diamond Fuel Giving these distinctions, does this mean you have to have two different two different tools? Of course not. People have soloed harder ice than most of us will ever climb on far worse tools than our modern options. just know that some are optimized for certain conditions and choose accordingly. Leashes have also fell by the wayside as modern tools have made it easier to hang on for long periods of time. However, sometimes it is handy to have umbilicals to prevent your from dropping a tool, other times they can prove to be a hindrance. As a rule, I only used umbilicals when dropping a tool would prove catastrophic. Helmet A non-negotiable. You must wear a helmet certified for climbing. There is no ice specific helmet and a if you already have a rock climbing helmet it will suffice. As there is often pieces of falling ice, a hardshell style helmet like the Petzl Elios or Black Diamond Half Dome are excellent choices. Others prefer lighter styles like the Petzl Sirrocco or the Black Diamond Vapor. Ensure it is sized appropriately to fit over a hood or hat. You should be able to see the front of your helmet when you look upwards and it should not move about when you shake your head front-to-back or side-to-side. Top to Bottom: Black Diamond Half Dome, Black Diamond Vapor, Petzl Sirocco Harness and Ice Clippers Where a rock climbing harness and an ice/alpine climbing harness differ lies in the construction and the inclusion of ice clipper slots. Modern harnesses designed specifically for winter use will use materials such as dyneema or spectra to reduce weight and prevent water absorption. While these are certainly nice enhancements they are not mandatory for ice climbing and a rock climbing harness will suffice. However, having the small loops built into the harness to allow for ice clippers is very handy. This allows for easy access to screws, both for placing and racking. The new Petzl Caritool clippers allow the user to place them anywhere on the harness, essentially nullifying the need. Petzl Caritool Evo For specific harnesses, the Petzl Sitta, Arcteryx AR395 and Black Diamond Aspect are great choices. And for those seeking the Rolls Royce of ice clippers, the DMM Vault's are nearly unbreakable. DMM Vault Backpack All of your gear should stow nicely inside a 30-40L backpack. When selecting a pack, light is right. Avoid bags that feature excessive frills, fancy attachments or heavy frames. Packs like the Patagonia Ascensionist or the Arcteryx Alpha FL are essentially one compartment a cinch top and a light foam back from. It is important to have ice tool attachment points on the exterior and potentially a means of attaching crampons. Climber-specific packs will be sized shorter so as not to block access to gear loops on your harness and not ride up and impede your swing. Make sure your pack weighs less than three pounds unloaded. If you’re rappelling the route you could also bring a small summit pack. This only needs to carry your belay jacket, spare gloves, a thermos and your headlamp. It need not be any larger than 20L and should roll down to very small and fit inside your larger pack. Belay Device, Locking Carabiners, Anchor Material At the very least, each climber requires their own tube style belay device with locking carabiner and a spare locker. If embarking on a multipitch climb the gear requirements for carabiners and anchor material are similar to the that of multipitch rock climbing (read more about that here: Essential Gear For Multipitch Climbing). You'll need a few extra locking carabiners, slings for anchor building or creating a personal tether, a personal prusik or Sterling Hollowblock and a 5m bundle of cordelette (minimum 9-10kN strength). Personal Bail Kit Every ice climber should have the knowledge and the means to create a safe anchor in an expedient fashion with minimal gear. Usually this means creating a V-thread or Abalokov. The gear required for this is a 21cm ice screw, an Abalahook and a short length of cord meeting the minimum standard of 10kN. This usually means 7mm cord and requires either 1.2m of precut cordage or a small knife to cut a segment off your cordelette bundle (you do carry one, right?). 21cm Petzl Laser Light screw, v-threader, 1.2m of 7mm tat, Petzl Spatha knife If you're not comfortable making a V-thread, seek professional instruction from an ACMG certified Alpine or Mountain guide to make sure you're perfectly clear on the subtle nuances of this essential skill. Ice Screws and Draws The number of ice screws required for any route is dictated by the nature of the pitches and your own personal comfort. Bring along enough to feel adequately protected while not impeding your climbing with excessive weight. Generally speaking, 10-12 screws should be enough. Bring more if its cold and you're climbing slowly, bring less if the ice is sticky and and you're most confident with your climbing. Bring four extra if you're building gear anchors (two per station) and maybe bring less if you're climbing a slot canyon with bolts and short pitches. Note: I don't include my mandatory 21cm screw and optional stubbies (10cm) in this count. In regards to length selection, the holding power is the same for 13cm screws and 21cm screws provided the threads are in the same contact with the same ice. This is due to the length of the threads being equal. For this reason, I tend to include more 13cm screws for expediency of placement and a reduction in weight. Longer 16cm screws become valuable when the good ice is buried under a layer of crude or when building anchors. And while expensive, the Petzl Laser Speed Light are worth every penny. In regards to draws, you'll need a mix of quickdraws and alpine draws and maybe a few more than the number of screws packed. The distribution of each should be dictated by the nature of the route. Straight forward routes will probably only required quickdraws but funky, featured or wandering routes will necessitate alpine draws and occasionally double length slings. If you already have a rack of draws for sport or trad climbing I won't try to convince you that you have to purchase a set allocated specifically for ice climbing. However, if one were to ask, the perfect draw for ice climbing is lightweight, easy to manipulate with gloves, long enough to maintain a good rope line if clipped in a hole and wiregate to prevent freezing. However most importantly to me is having a clean, notchless nose on the carabiner to prevent snagging on jacket hemlines. In my humble opinion the three carabiners that have best exemplified these criteria at the Petzl Ange, DMM Chimera and Wild Country Helium. This biner selection applies to both draws and alpines. Left: Black Diamond Freewire Right: Wild Country Helium. Note the notch in the carabiner by the nose. Avalanche Gear Often neglected but quickly and rightly so becoming more popular, certain routes demand appropriate avalanche gear, either on the approach, on route or both. If faced with complex terrain and an unfavorable bulletin, ensure that all parties have a beacon, shovel and probe and know how to use them. Weight is certainly a concern and you will appreciate a lighter option. A shorter probe like the BCA Stealth 240 works well and a small shovel such as the Mammut Alugator Light are a great combination. Many ice climbers like the Peips Micro but any beacon works, just make sure you're familiar with yours and well trained in companion rescue. Beacons must be checked when leaving the vehicle to ensure each one is on and the shovel and probe can be stashed on the sides of your pack’s interior. Make sure they're stored within your bag. Headlamp During short winter days we will regularly begin and end a day of ice climbing in the dark. Make sure you have a bright, reliable headlamp. I prefer a USB rechargeable model like the Petzl Reactik because I never have to doubt the remaining life in my batteries. Cheaper option are the Petzl Tikka or Tikkina, which are powered by AAA batteries (make sure you have a few spares packed). These offer great illumination for an excellent price. Because light is so important, I always keep a tiny 27g Petzl E-Lite+ in my first aid kit as a backup. First Aid Kit, Guide’s Tarp, Emergency Communication Device Most ice climbing locales are in remote, rugged landscapes demanding self sufficiency. It is imperative that your group have the means to address minor medical concerns and manage serious incidents. A well stocked first aid kit for ice climbing should have the means to stop bleeding, splint a broken bone, manage pain, package a victim to keep them warm and prepare for transport and communicate with outside help. A the very least you should have a collection of gauze and bandages, steristrips, medical tape, a small blister kit, pain medication and a way to improvise a splint. Sam or C splints work well but with proper training you should be able to improvise with equipment you already have. A silicone impregnated nylon tarp give you a way to create shelter, make a rescue sled or wrap someone up to keep them warm. A small space blanket helps also. One of the most crucial items to have is a fully charged cell phone. While the temptation always exists to use your phone as a camera, make sure you have enough battery life in case you need to call for help. And should you be outside cell reception, a personal locator beacon or satellite phone can be a literal life saver. The best options, like the Garmin InReach offer two-way communication but the value of a Spot or Fastfind Ranger can not be overstated. Repair Kit A small repair kit specific to your gear is handy. Keep this streamlined and minimal. A spare toe bail, allen keys for your tools and crampons and a small roll of duct tape is probably enough for most problems you'll encounter. Most of these parts can be stowed inside your first aid kit. Avoid carrying a heavy Leatherman or multi-tool and a vast assortment of spare parts. If you break a pick on an ice climbing day trip you're probably going to accept that fact, rappel and go home. Food and Water To keep your metabolic furnace adequately stoked, make sure you regularly consume high calories food throughout the day. Take what you would normally eat for a day of rock climbing and double it. Then add enough calories to fuel you for an emergency walk. Consider choosing food that doesn’t freeze like nuts and hard candies and keep a few bars or snacks in your pocket, close to your body heat, for quick access. Bring enough water to make sure you're staying hydrated. Hydration packs typically don't work well as the hose tends to freeze almost immediately. Insulating a water bottle with bubble wrap works really well. On particularly cold days a small thermos of tea is a welcomed reprieve, particularly when used as a delivery system for copious amounts of added sugar. Personal Supplies A small roll of toilet paper and lighter inside a sealed ziplock bag, contact lenses or glasses if you need them, any personal medications you may require. If you're bringing a camera bear in mind that the cold zaps battery life quickly. Bring spare batteries or keep your camera or phone close to your body for warmth. And even though the days seem short and the sun doesn't feel as intense, make sure you're protecting yourself with sunscreen, lip chap and sunglasses. Keep these near the top of your bag or in your pocket so you don't forget to use them. Clothing and Glove Systems The intricacies of clothing and gloves systems extend far beyond the reach of this simple list, warranting a post unto itself. However, simply summarized we must ensure we're wearing an "action suit" capable of regulating body temperature and moisture at a level of moderate exertion, insulation to facilitate moisture transfer, layers to provide element protection and a belay jacket to dry the layers underneath and retain maximum warmth. A full post can be expected on this topic shortly. Gloves are also highly dependent on conditions and climbers will take anywhere from two to five pairs of varying thicknesses. Some will be thin and dexterous for leading and warm weather while others will be thicker for cold conditions, seconding or rappelling. < Ice Climbing Packing List Mountaineering Boots Technical Crampons Ice Tools Climbing Helmet Climbing Harness with Ice Clippers 30-40L Backpack Belay Device and Locking Carabiner Spare Locking Carabiner Personal Climbing Equipment: Cordelette, Prussik, Anchor Material 21cm Ice Screw, V-Threader, Small Knife, Spare 7mm Tat Ice Screws and Draws (dictated by route) Avalanche Gear (if needed): Beacon, Shovel, Probe Headlamp First Aid Kit Guide's Tarp Communication Device Small Repair Kit Food and Water Toilet Paper and Lighter Sunscreen, Sunglasses, Lip Chap Clothing and Gloves (not covered in this post) Please consider this a starting point to ensure you have all the appropriate items ticked on your ice climbing packing list. If you're in the Bow Valley or shopping online you can get everything on this list right here at Vertical Addiction. If you have any questions or feel there should be anything else added to this ice climbing packing list, please don't hesitate to contact us directly or comment below.
Learn moreSki Touring Repair Kit Essentials
Make sure you have what you need for an enjoyable day out with a well-stocked ski touring repair kit. A full packing list can be found here. And yes, it's light and small! An often overlooked, but critical piece of your backcountry safety gear is your ski touring repair kit. We are all so dependent upon our gear and the places we backcountry ski are usually well off the beaten path, demanding self-sufficiency. It just takes one broken binding and several kilometres of waist deep post-holing in the dark to gain a deeper appreciation of this fact. As with all human-powered activities, what we carry is governed by what we're willing to lug uphill. We need a ski touring repair kit that is multipurpose, light and streamlined so that, if nothing else, we're actually willing to pack it along with us. The following is a very basic repair kit that you can work off of to tailor to your specific needs. Ski Touring Repair Kit Essentials Ski straps Probably the single most important item in your kit and you should consider carrying two in addition to the ones used for your skis in transport. The uses for these are too numerous to list fully but they can be used for major repairs to boot and binding systems, provide temporary solutions to skin glue issues or in the construction of rescue sleds. I've also found them to be extremely useful in improvised splinting of injuries. 500mm ski strap from G3 Small Roll of Tape Everyone will recommend duct tape as the universal solution for anything that is moving and shouldn't be. But the reality is that duct tape can't really fix any of the serious problems you encounter in the backcountry. Its effectiveness is diminished in cold weather and it also loses its adhesive strength over time, requiring regular replacement. I do carry a small roll and supplement that with medical tape from my first aid kit. Many people wrap a few meters around their water bottle or ski pole. For clothing repair, I bring a small plastic pouch containing a few pre-cut strips of Tenacious Tape, which I find holds up better in high flex areas of garments. Pole Splint This is essentially two pieces of curved aluminum, either purchased or salvaged with a hacksaw from an old pole. The splint is placed over the broken pole and secured above and below with small hose clamps. It isn't impossible to ski without a pole but difficult terrain, deep snow or with a heavy pack, it sure isn't fun. Pole basket A pole basket is one of the toughest things to improvise in the field and the pain-in-the-ass factor of skinning without one warrant its inclusion. Be sure it fits your pole, as most brands use a different attachment method, but you can secure one with tape in a pinch. Skin Tail Attachment As it is not unusual for these to fail, consider carrying at least one. You can make a lot of them work between brands but it is best to be compatible, particularly if your skis require special attachments like the G3 Twin Tip. If you're on a longer trip, consider carrying two. Clockwise from top left: Black Diamond Tail Clip, G3 Tail Clip, G3 Twin Tip Skin Tip These are much less likely to fail, but if you have weak glue on your skins or find yourself in a range of variable conditions it is not impossible. Because they're harder to repair you may just want to fix this with a ski strap but longer tours may justify bringing a spare and the tools to swap them out. Screw Drivers Whether you choose a Binding Buddy, a small bit driver or full-sized screwdrivers, it is important to have tools to adjust or repair components of your bindings and boots. Dynafit bindings require a couple of different tools including Torx bits and the common #3 Pozi-drive. Because the G3 Ions only require the Pozi-drive, I limit my tools to a mini keychain driver from them for day trips. On longer trips, I'll bring along a bit driver with a few bits for redundancy and to help out anyone else in my party. The Binding Buddy from Black Diamond includes most of the common sizes but I find the tool to be cumbersome in small spaces and heavy for what it offers. If your ski boots have special screws, its good to have the tools to prevent a loose piece from becoming a lost piece. Scarpa has a neat little tool that adjusts pretty much anything you would require on your Gea/Mastrale boots that doesn't add a lot of weight. G3 Mini Pozi Drive #3 Leatherman/pliers tool For day trips a small multitool like a Leatherman Squirt saves weight but for real repairs, it simply doesn't handle the torque. For longer, more committing tours there simply isn't a substitute for a heavy-duty, full-sized multitool. Ideally, this will include a bit-driver, a file and a wire cutter. Skinwax To prevent wet snow from saturating your skins, keeping the weight down from sticky snow and keep your glide up. This is really noticeable in spring touring or during temperature inversions with a wet snowpack. Black Diamond Glop Stopper is great and you only need a small chunk of the large bar. Black Diamond Glop Stopper Scraper Used mostly to strip icy build up off your skins or top sheets, either a plastic or metal edged scraper will work. These should cost no more than $8 and you can also use the edge of your other ski or some ski poles handles like the BCA Specter if you're trying to carry one less item. Binding Repair and Blowout Kit The likelihood of ripping out a modern binding from a modern ski is quite low. The quality has improved substantially, even over the last few years. Nevertheless, should you be more than a few days walk from civilization a lightweight blowout repair kit may allow you to limp home. For this I would include a few spare screws that are compatible with both your bindings and also the tools you've brought along. It is unlikely that you'll ever blow a binding right off and lose all screws, so four of varying lengths should suffice. A few pinches of steel wool are first inserted into the ripped out hole, filling the space torn out by the screw threads and then filled with a fast setting two part epoxy. A "double-bubble" packet like this one from Tognar handle cold weather well and aren't huge like most plunger style epoxies. I store all of this in a small film canister and the steel wool does an excellent job of preventing a rattle. Unless you're weeks away from help, you don't need to carry a spare toe piece. Bailing Wire When used with a ski strap or two, this can solve almost any binding or boot emergency. A couple feet of stiff wire (approximately 16 gauge), coiled up nice and small will work. Zip Ties Used for reattaching a broken skin strap or refastening a boot buckle, these weight next to nothing. Look for the bigger, beefier ones as the little guys are prone to breaking. Small Pouch The whole kit should fit nicely in a slim pouch or bag, ideally weighing under a pound or two. There is really no need to carry more than one of these repair kits per group. There are a number of items not included in this minimalist kit that you may want to consider, including spare batteries for headlamps or beacons, sewing kits, extra spare parts or tools. It should be noted that this selection is really intended to provide a supplement to your own creative ingenuity to limp back to the trailhead, not fully repair catastrophic damage. A few of the items listed may already be included in your pack, whether in your first aid kit, glacier travel equipment or otherwise. Make sure you customize your own repair kit as needed, ensuring it is comprehensive for your unique needs without becoming excessively heavy or bulky. Most of these items can be sourced from a hardware store and all of the ski-specific gear can be found at Vertical Addiction online or in store.
Learn morePimp my [climbing] Rack - How little tweaks can save you a lot of weight
By making adjustments to things I thought were necessary, or previously considered too insignificant to matter, I was able to shave almost 1kg (3 lbs) when all was said and done while adding more to my rack! ( 10 minutes read). Forged Friends, technical friends, a couple of old brass head quad cams, and a DMM #4 4CU. Jeweler's wire had taken the place of the original trigger wire on a few, and some slings with webbing tied off with water knots. As old and manky as it was, this rack, supplemented with a few newer BD Camalots and a set of nuts, had served me well as a trad climbing noob. I dug through the closet in search of gear for a quick weekend burn to Skaha should a weather window arise and there they were. My old “friends”. With another season of rock just around the corner, I decided it was time to say goodbye and upgrade to something a little more confidence inspiring for the adventures to come. Having more experience and mileage under my belt now, I had a better idea of what I wanted out of a new rack, and where I was willing and unwilling to make compromises. Weight and affordability were major priorities for me, with a few other features that played into the final decision of what the new rack is now comprised of. Though shiny new cams are nice, and the right ones can help shave a few grams, in the end, the most drastic weight cuts were done by completely rethinking my systems and making minor tweaks here and there. By making adjustments to things I thought were necessary, or previously considered too insignificant to matter, I was able to shave almost 1kg (3 lbs) when all was said and done while adding more to my rack! Cams After looking at C4’s, Ultralights, Dragons and so on, I decided to double up on the New Friends from Wild Country for the #0.75 - #3 sizes. I didn’t bother with the smaller sizes since the larger micro cams overlap into the #0.5 range, but weigh in a bit lighter and have a narrower head profile. Significantly updated from the previous Technical Friends on my old rack, Wild Country’s New Friends feature double axles, a thumb loop, extendable slings and wider, machined raw aluminum lobes for better purchase on soft stone. Though not as light as the BD Ultralights (which will lighten your wallet as much as your rack), they are one of the lightest options on the market coming in at about 10 grams lighter than the comparable Dragons or C4’s for the midrange. These numbers don’t sound significant on their own, but we’ll see how these small numbers up to a significant weight reduction quite quickly. Extendable slings were a big one for me since it means leaving more quickdraws (more weight) at home without the headache of rope drag on those wandering routes that don’t necessarily call for a shoulder sling. The DMM Dragons offer this, as well as their machined “triple grip” lobes, but at the cost of a thumb loop, a few grams for the minimalists, and a financial blow for some. Left to right: #3 BD Ultralight, Wild Country New Friend, and DMM Dragon Micro cams Full run of Alien Revolution’s with doubles of the larger sizes The micro cams were a no-brainer for me after having picked up a yellow alien revolution last summer and confidently finding it a home on every climb since. Lightweight, ridiculously flexible stem, extendable sling, and a narrow head profile that can open up many more placement options makes this my absolute favorite cam on the market. With a similar head profile and flexible stem, the Black Diamond X4’s are worth taking note of, however, the Alien’s lobes are of a different construction, have a narrower head, and come in on the lighter side for a full run. The lobes of the Aliens are built with a softer alloy, making them less durable on one hand, but on the other giving it that extra bit of bite into the rock, which is by no means a bad thing when we’re talking cams this small. When it comes to weight the X4’s come close in the smaller sizes, but as the size increases, the weight does so significantly in comparison to the Aliens and by the end of a full run we’re talking 91 grams for the #0.5 X4 vs the 61 grams Red Alien. When doubling up, that's an entire cam in weight savings for the 0.5 size alone! Left to right: Wild Country New Friend 0.5, BD X4 0.5, Red Alien 1 The flexible stem not only makes for fantastic placements in horizontals, but I’ve even found it to make a great first piece where possible. Normally, when a cam is placed, it is angled slightly down in the anticipated direction of pull. However, as the rope tightens when the leader falls or asks for a take, this will pull the cam outward towards the belayer rather than down causing the first piece to walk up and possibly compromising the placement. This can be avoided by clipping with an alpine draw on the first piece of protection at the cost of a longer fall of the start (which could lead to decking). With a cam such as the Alien, however, the stem flexes out as the rope tightens while the head stays in place without the use of a longer sling. Draws and Slings While picking out all of the new pieces, I remembered the long strenuous walk into the Bugs (not to mention the longer approaches of the Rockies). Only having saved 184 grams with the new cams, I decided to continue my quest to reduce weight where I could. So I took a look at draws, slings, and biners next. I’ve always been in the habit of extending my pro by a quickdraw at least, in order to reduce rope drag and cam-walk. Therefore have always brought along a rack of draws and a few extendable slings. However, at 106 grams per Petzl Djinn, and 110 grams per 60cm nylon, with two BD hoodwires, continuing to bring my 1.6 kg rack of “do everything” sport draws was less than ideal. Now, this is where the extendable slings on the cams come into play, no longer necessitating the use of draws on every placement and allowing me to leave my hefty rack of sport draws behind. Instead, I opted for only a handful of the ultralight Wild Country Astro draws, at 65 grams a piece, that I'll be using for nut placements and the odd bolt or piton I encounter en route. For climbing splitters in Squampton, this is often all that’s needed (plus a shoulder length runner or two for good measure), but in the Rockies this is obviously not enough as odd pro placements, wandering routes and ledges often call for use of shoulder length slings to reduce rope drag. To supplement the four quickdraws, I decided to go with four CAMP Mach Express extendable draws and four shoulder length Dyneema slings complimented by a single lightweight biner on each. Coming in at 70 grams a piece, the Mach express weighs slightly less than Black Diamond’s similar Oz alpine runner. Though it lacks the hooded feature of the Oz set, the Mach Express benefits from having CAMP’s full size photon biner for ease of handling on the rope end, and their smaller nano 22 on the other in order to keep weight down, as well as reduce overall size making them more packable and more rackable. With the entire kit being overhauled, it didn’t make sense to continue using nylon runners for shoulder slings with Dyneema being more packable and significantly lighter for only a few extra bucks. Having used 60cm nylon runners with a BD hoodwire biner as a shoulder sling in the past, I was able to save 16 grams a sling and 15 grams per biner by going to Dyneema paired with a CAMP nano 22. Extras As a bit of a bonus, there were still two other items in my kit I decided to update: My anchor and racking biners. Having learned a few anchor building techniques from a local guide, I decided the 240cm sling was no longer necessary, nor were the amount of lockers I was bringing along. I traded out the 240cm for a shorter length sling, some lockers for non-lockers, and my BD Rocklocks for the lighter/sleeker Petzl Ange lockers. Other commonly overlooked items are racking biners. Having previously used Black Diamond Hoodwire’s, making the switch to a lighter carabiner such as the Nano 22 from Camp, I was able to save up to another 200+ grams for just 16 biners! Conclusion The switchover from sport draws with 3 nylon alpine draws, to the lightweight Astros with Dyneema alpine draws and shoulder slings was by far the most drastic cut in weight, shaving nearly a kilo off of my kit while still enabling myself to carry twelve draws. Between this, in combination with new racking biners, anchor, and a lighter rack of cams, I was able to save 1.48 Kilograms (3.27lbs.) total on the new rack alone. For the serious gram counter, going with the Black Diamond Ultralights for the #0.75-3 range could further decrease the weight by another 150 grams when doubling up. Though it was nice to be able to start from scratch and replace the historic cams that had gotten myself through their fair share of adventures, it just goes to show how quickly the numbers can add up, even on things as small as the biners you’ve been racking with. So for those looking into replacing their older pieces of pro, biners, or even slings it may be worth looking into something a few grams lighter, because, in the end, a few grams here and there could save you close to a kilo by the time you’re done. Your partners and your back will thank you. Below I’ve included charts comparing weights of the various gear considered during this process. The numbers gathered were either from the manufacturer's website themselves or weighed by myself for pieces such as the #0.4 friend that has no data on their site.
Learn moreMaking Sense of the Numbers - Understanding the Climbing Rope Rating System
Out of all the climbing equipment, ropes are by far the piece of gear that has the most certifications and tests performed. This results in a lot of information and data printed on labels of climbing ropes. Sometimes, more information just makes our choice more confusing than it should be. In this article, we'll try to help you better understand all those numbers in order to enable you to buy the best rope for your needs. All this confusion could explain the results of a couple of consumer surveys performed by US rope manufacturers in early 2000. They found that consumers ultimately bought ropes based on colors and sheath pattern and that the information found on labels was confusing and not helping in the decision making process. In my 20 years of working in the climbing industry, I have witnessed the same thing when people shop for a new climbing rope. The first thing we need to establish is the difference between the 3 types of ropes. Secondly, we'll give a rough guideline of the forces a climber and their gear may be subjected to in a day of climbing. Then, we'll talk about the tests a climbing rope is put through and lastly, we will break down all of the data, certifications and information found on climbing rope packages to help you pick the best rope for your needs. Three Types Of Dynamic Climbing Ropes Dynamic ropes for climbing can be divided into three categories, each with their own strengths and intended uses: single, twin, and half. Single Ropes Single ropes are the most common and simplest to use. One rope is used in the system and is rated to hold multiple falls. With a single rope, the leader clips the rope in each piece of protection and the belayer only has one rope to manage. A belayer can also use an assisted braking belay device like the Petzl Grigri or Madrock Lifeguard, which can only accommodate a single rope. Single ropes are the best choice for the overwhelming majority of climbing, and depending on the diameter and features, can be used for trad, sport, ice, alpine, gym and big wall. The downside to a single rope system is the need for a second rope for full-length rappels and the lack of redundancy. Some wandering routes may require lots of long slings to mitigate rope drag, unless using a half rope system (more below.) Single rated ropes will be denoted with a number one inside a circle and this will be found on the small tag at the ends of the rope, as well as on the packaging. Twin Ropes Twin ropes are the first of two double rope systems we will touch upon. The twin rope setup is designed to be used with two in tandem. The climber ties into both ropes and clip both ropes into each piece of protection, identically how one would with a single rope. This is advantageous because having two ropes enables the climber to have full-length rappels and provides added safety and redundancy in the event one rope is compromised. Twin ropes are not designed to be used independently, meaning they must always be used as a pair. In North America, this is not a common system due to the inconvenience of clipping both ropes and durability issues associated with the thinner diameters. They are the lightest double rope setup, making them ideal for alpine climbing and are found in diameters as low as 6.9mm. The symbol for twin ropes is an infinity symbol within a circle, occasionally with the word “twin” written above. Half Ropes A more commonly used, but increasingly complex rope method is the half rope system. As with Twins, in this set up both climbers are required to tie into both strands. Each strand of a half rope is rated to hold a fall on its own, albeit with a lower weight in tests (more below). They are also skinnier and lighter than single ropes, making them less durable and less likely to sustain repeated hard falls. In application, the leader will alternate clipping the two ropes, providing redundancy and reducing rope drag. This system is the most complicated to learn and can lead to hassles in rope management but is a great system for routes that require thoughtful protection. Half ropes are easily identified by the fractional “half” symbol. What is a Kilonewton (kN)? In climbing, we utilize the kilonewton (kN) as our measure of force. This is an indication as to the amount of force being placed on the climber, belayer, and climbing system. So what is a kilonewton? The quick answer is that 1 kN is approximately 100kg, however, this omits is the influence of gravity on the load. Because gravity is an exponential equation, a heavier object moving faster will produce more force. If you remember your high school physics: Force(F) = Mass(M) x Acceleration(A) F = 1kg x Gravity (9.81m/s) F = 1000g x 9.81m/s F = 9.81N F = 0.00981 kN For simplicity sake, we can state that if a 100kg climber is hanging from a rope, he is putting 1kN of force on the system. During a climbing lead fall, depending on the weight of the climber, the length of the fall and the amount of rope to absorb the impact, the climbing system can experience anywhere from 3-7kN. Which brings us to our second point: The fall factor. What Is A Fall Factor? A fall factor (FF) is calculated by taking the distance of a fall, divided by the length of rope available to catch the fall of the lead climber (measured as the length of rope between the belay device of the belayer and the knot of the lead climber). This is often used as an indication of the severity of a climbing fall and is quantified between 0 and 2. Fall Factor (FF) = Length Of Fall / Rope Length As seen in the image above, a climber weighting a rope is producing a FF 0, whereas a climber with two meters of rope who falls from the height of the anchor would produce a FF1. Fall Factor (FF) = Length Of Fall / Rope Length FF=2m/2m FF=1 With the exception of via ferrata, a fall factor of 2 is the highest impact force we can produce while climbing (2 meters fall on only 1 meter of rope). This is often misunderstood because a lot of people assume a longer fall would automatically produce a higher impact force. It is, in fact, the relationship between the length of the fall vs the amount of rope available to catch the fall that matters. Where Do The Numbers On A Rope Label Come From? Most of the information printed on rope labels come from the certification requirements from the UIAA ( Union international des associations d'alpinisme). The UIAA established minimum standards and test protocols to ensure the safety and performance of personal protection equipment such as climbing ropes. Rope samples are sent by manufacturers to be tested at independent UIAA certified labs to make sure they meet those minimum requirements. The tests are standardized for transparency and ease of comparison. To fully understand where the test numbers come from, let's examine the test used to produce this data. A mass is attached at the end of a rope sample. The mass is then raised 2.3 meters above a quickdraw with an anchor positioned 30 cm below the quickdraw. The fall factor used for this test is therefore 4.6 meters fall / 2.6 meter of rope = 1.77 ((2.3 X 2) / (2.3 + 0.30) =1.77) This fall is repeated until failure of the rope sample resulting in the "UIAA Falls" number seen on the label. The mass used for this test is as follow: 80 kg for the single rope certification 55 kg on a single strand of rope for the half rope certification 80 kg on two strands of rope for the twin certification Making Sense Of These Numbers Impact Force This is a very important information if you are planning on using the rope for ice, alpine or traditional climbing. The Impact Force (IF) is a measure of the elasticity of the rope, and consequently its ability to absorb the energy in a climbing fall. This can be interpreted as the amount of force your body would "feel" during the standardized test with a fall factor of 1.77. The higher the impact force, the more energy will be transmitted to the belay system and the associated protection. Anytime you might be relying on less than perfect protections, the lower the impact force the better, as this will create a soft catch and is less likely to put undue stress upon your protection. Care should be taken when using a rope with low impact force for top roping as these ropes tend to sometimes stretch more. Single Rope Half Rope Twin Ropes (Pair) UIAA Maximum Impact Force 12 kN 8 kN 12 kN Number Of Falls This by far the most misunderstood information about climbing ropes. During this test, which is performed using the same method as Impact Force, ropes are subjected to sequential drops in a Fall Factor 1.77 until failure is achieved. This generates an unusually high amount of force and is extremely unlikely to be replicated in a real-world climbing situation. Here's the minimum falls ropes need to withstand in order to pass the UIAA testing. Single Rope Half Rope Twin Ropes (Pair) 5 Falls 5 Falls 12 Falls Dynamic Elongation Dynamic elongation is a finicky variable that plays close at hand to that of the Impact Force. Essentially, this is the length the rope stretches to produce the low impact forces we seek. While we want a low impact force, we don’t want a rope to stretch too far to achieve that, as it might put the climber at risk for stretching too far and hitting the ground or a ledge. In the same test as the Number Of Falls test a weight is dropped and after the first 1.77 fall factor in the ultimate number of fall test, the difference between the actual traveled distance of the 80 kg mass and the theoretical distance (2.3 meters X 2) is expressed in percentage. According to the UIAA, the dynamic elongation should be no more than 40% for all classifications of ropes (single, double and twin). Single Rope Half Rope Twin Ropes (Pair) UIAA Dynamic Elongation 40% 40% 40% Static Elongation Useful information mainly for top roping applications. The standard test is to tie a 5 kg mass to 1 meter of rope and then replace the 5 kg mass by 80 kg and measure the difference in stretch between the two masses. The result is expressed in percentage. The maximum static elongation for single ropes is 10% (10 cm on 1 meter of rope), for half rope 12% on a single strand and for twin ropes 12% on both strands. This is important to think about if you’re belaying a second on a multipitch and they ask for a take, as this could give you an indication as to how far they will settle into the rope. Single Rope Half Rope Twin Ropes (Pair) UIAA Static Elongation 10% 12% 12% Rope Diameter This one is pretty self-explanatory, this is the diameter of the rope expressed in mm. Something to note is the tolerance allowed by the UIAA in expressing the diameter on the label. Manufacturers are allowed to advertise 0.3mm above or below the actual diameter measurement. A 9.5 mm labeled rope might, in fact, be anywhere between 9.2mm and 9.8 mm. This leeway is used by rope manufacturer to strategically position their ropes on the market. Weight This is expressed in grams per meter. A lighter weight rope will be appreciated on arduous approaches or long climbs where you’re trailing substantial rope weight. This can often (but not always) give you a rough idea of the durability of the rope. As with anything, usually the lighter we go, the less durable the rope will be in the long term. Weight can also be the best way to compare two or more similar ropes from different brands as the diameter can sometimes be misleading. Sheath Percentage The sheath percentage is often a better indicator of durability. This is the ratio of sheath vs core expressed in percentage. Not all manufacturers publish this information but it is useful for determining how abrasion resistant a rope is. Thicker sheath usually translates into a more durable rope. I am using the word "usually" because other factors such as the number of threads and the type of weave will also affect how durable the rope will be. Sheath slippage Climbing ropes are made up of two components, a core and a sheath. The core usually handles the mechanical properties of the rope, the sheath is there to protect the core against abrasion and UV rays. Every manufacturer have a different process to ensure a durable bond between the two components. In the UIAA test, a 2-meter sample of rope is run back and forth through a device that pinches the rope. After 5 cycles, there should be no more than 20 mm separation between the core and sheath. UIAA Water Repellent Certified After 10 years of research, the UIAA finally came up with a standardized test for dry treated ropes. A sample of rope is lightly abraded to simulate some wear on the sheath. Water is then run against the sample for 15 minutes at a rate of 2 liters per minute on a 30-degree plane. After the elapsed time the rope sample is put on a scale and should have absorbed no more than 5% of its original weight. In comparison, a non-dry treated rope will absorb water up to 50% of its weight. Before this standard was implemented, "Dry" labeled ropes have been found to absorb anywhere between 20% and 40% of their weight in water. Having a dry rope is a non-negotiable for ice and alpine climbing, as it is a near certainty that the rope will become wet during the course of the day, but it is debatable whether this is required for general summer use. Middle mark A useful feature for easily finding the half point of a rope, but keep in mind that according to the UIAA the marked midpoint must be within 1 meter of the actual halfway point of the rope. The two methods to signal the halfway point are a change of pattern and/or the introduction of a new color strand in the sheath or a simple black ink mark. The black ink is more cost effective but over time might become less visible especially on dark colored ropes. In conclusion, understanding the numbers on labels are important and should sway your decision based on the type of climbing you will be doing with the rope. The most important point to understand is that a lot of time, money, and energy has been invested by the UIAA and all rope manufacturers to ensure that the ropes you'll find at your local climbing shop have huge safety margin built into them. The biggest safety factor will always rest on our shoulders, the climbers. It is our responsibility to choose a rope and use it according to its specification (single, half, twin) and to take proper care of the piece of equipment that saves our ass so many times. If you have any questions or want clarification on any of the information found here, please comment below or come into Vertical Addiction and chat with one of our great staff members. We all love nerding out over this stuff! Climbing is dangerous and posses inherent risk. It is your responsibility to seek proper instruction from qualified professionals to learn the necessary skills to participate in any of the activities described herein. The information found here is for entertainment and general information purposes only and does not constitute advice, nor is it intended to be educational in any way.
Learn moreChoosing the Right Ski Boots
Choosing the right ski boots is crucial as the right boot fit can transform your day on the mountain, while the wrong choice can ruin it. Taking the time the to choose the right ski boots will guarantee performance, comfort and pleasure, whether on the slopes or off-piste. Choosing the Right Ski Boots Ski boots are an essential element for every skier. They form the direct link between you, your bindings and your skis, and every movement you make translates into action on the snow. The right boot fit can transform your day on the mountain, while the wrong choice can ruin it. Well-fitting boots provide the support, comfort and control you need to make the most of your day on the slopes. Conversely, ill-fitting boots can make the experience frustrating, even painful, and ruin what could have been an enjoyable outing. That's why it's crucial to take the time to choose the right ski boots. This guarantees both performance and pleasure, whether on the slopes or off-piste. At Vertical Addiction, we offer a wide range of ski boots. Whether you're looking for lightweight boots for ski touring or rigid boots for downhill skiing, we've got you covered. We carry popular ski boots brands such as Atomic ski boots, Nordica, Tecnica, Salomon, Dynafit and Scarpa Our qualified staff is here to help you make an informed decision based on your needs, foot shape, budget and skiing ability. Differences between alpine ski boots and touring ski boots: **Alpine ski boots** Alpine boots are designed primarily for downhill skiing on groomed slopes. They are rigid and offer excellent support to maximize energy transmission between skier and skis. Their rigidity allows precise control of the skis, especially at high speeds and in tight turns. They are generally heavier, as they don't need to promote mobility on ascents, but rather stability and power on descents. These boots attach firmly to the skis via bindings that allow only minimal movement of the heel, guaranteeing great stability. **Touring ski boots** Ski touring boots, on the other hand, are designed for both uphill and downhill skiing, which implies very different characteristics. For off-piste skiers, performance is not limited to descents, and lightness plays a crucial role in limiting fatigue. Being lighter and more flexible than alpine boots, they allow a greater range of movement when climbing. These boots feature a “walk mode” mechanism that frees the ankle, offering greater freedom of movement when walking or climbing uphill. Touring ski boots are also compatible with specific bindings that release the heel when climbing, facilitating walking or ski touring. However, they can be locked in downhill mode to offer similar stiffness to alpine ski boots, although often a little less control in fast or high-speed turns. That said, our top-of-the-range touring ski boots manage to strike a balance between lightness and stiffness, offering a good compromise between comfort on the way up and performance on the way down. Different soles, different purpose The soles of alpine ski boots (ISO 5355) are rigid, made of hard plastic and designed to provide a precise interface with alpine ski bindings. They are generally smooth to ensure a good connection with downhill bindings, but are not ideal for walking on a variety of surfaces. The soles of touring ski boots (ISO 9523), on the other hand, are often made of non-slip rubber (“Vibram” soles, for example) to provide better grip when climbing or on rocky terrain. They are also more flexible and designed to allow walking, which is essential in sections where skis need to be carried or walked on icy or uneven surfaces. These soles are also often compatible with tech bindings, which allow the heel to free up on the way up and lock in on the way down. Some boots offer soles with better grip than the alpine ISO 5355 soles, but less thickness than ski touring boots (ISO 9523). They use either Walk-to-Ride (WTR) or GripWalk (GW) soles (ISO 23223). ** Differences between WTR and GripWalk** - Binding compatibility : WTR soles require specific WTR-certified bindings, while GripWalk soles are compatible with a wider range of GripWalk-certified bindings, making them more versatile. - Design: GripWalk soles have a more modern, standardized design with better grip and stability, while WTR soles are older and less widely adopted. - Walking: Both types of sole improve comfort when walking compared with traditional rigid alpine ski soles, but GripWalk soles tend to perform better on different types of surface thanks to optimized curvature and rubber. Differences between alpine and touring boot liners Alpine boot liners are generally thicker and stiffer, designed to offer maximum support, a snug fit and optimal energy transmission to the skis. They are often made of dense, insulating foam to keep feet warm during long days on the slopes. On the other hand, touring boot liners are lighter and more flexible to enhance comfort when climbing. They are often made from more breathable and less bulky materials to reduce weight, while offering adequate insulation. Some touring ski boots are thermoformable, allowing a customized fit to enhance both comfort and performance. Ski Boots Features Explained **Stiffness according to the skier's level** The stiffness of a ski boot, often measured by the flex index, is a key factor in choosing the right pair for your level of skiing. A lower flex index (less stiff) is recommended for beginners, as it offers more flexibility and forgiveness, making it easier to learn turns and stay comfortable. For intermediate to advanced skiers, a stiffer boot provides better responsiveness and more precise ski control. The more you progress, the more important stiffness becomes to optimize your performance, especially at high speeds or on more demanding terrain. **Boot width and foot width** The width of the boot (or last) is essential to ensure a good fit according to your foot morphology. If you have a wider foot, a boot with a wide last (100 mm or more) will offer you greater comfort. Conversely, slimmer feet will benefit from a narrow fit (generally between 95 and 98 mm), which will ensure better support. A proper fit prevents excessive movement inside the boot, improving control and precision while skiing. **Buckle adjustment** Buckles play a key role in the boot's overall fit. They allow you to customize closure and compression in different areas of the foot and lower leg. It's important to tighten the buckles evenly, without creating pressure points. Well-adjusted buckles provide good support for the foot, improving power transmission to the skis, while maintaining comfort for an entire day. **Boot sizing** (mondopoint) The size of ski boots is measured in “mondopoint”. It must correspond precisely to the size of your foot (in cm) to guarantee a good fit. If the boot is too long, you'll lose precision and control. If it's too short, you risk pain or numbness. A good length fit ensures optimum comfort and responsiveness on snow. **Movement inside the boot** Foot movement inside the boot should be minimal to maximize control. Too much movement can lead to a loss of precision and power, as well as long-term discomfort. A well-fitting boot should hold the heel firmly in place and limit lateral movement, while offering sufficient flexibility to allow natural forward movement. **Range of motion of a ski touring boot** Range of motion is one of the most important features of a ski touring boot. Unlike alpine boots, touring boots are designed to offer great flexibility when climbing. In “walk mode”, the ankle is released, allowing a rocking movement with a rotation angle ranging from 30 to 60 degrees or more, facilitating uphill walking. In “downhill” mode, the boot locks in and becomes stiffer to offer better support on descents, although this stiffness is generally a little less than that of alpine ski boots. In short, alpine ski boots are optimized for downhill skiing with rigidity and precision, while touring ski boots combine lightness, mobility for ascents and good control for descents. And no matter which boot you need, fit is key to making the most of your day on the mountain.
Learn moreHow To Care For Your Ice Tools
No matter what your level, taking care of your (very expensive!) gear is paramount to having a fun and safe time in the mountains. From rust to dull picks, here's a little guide on how to care for your ice tools. Winter is here, and with it; ice climbing. Here in the Bow Valley, we have a collection of some of the highest rated, most consistent, and, in my opinion, the most fun ice climbs out there. From classics like Moonlight (WI4), Hydrophobia (WI5), and Cascade Falls (WI3-R), to beginner-friendly cragging areas like Haffner Creek and Bear Spirit, the Bow Valley area has something for every level of ice climber. No matter what your level, taking care of your (very expensive!) gear is paramount to having a fun and safe time in the mountains. The biggest difference between ice & drytooling gear compared to rock gear is that it isn’t often made with nylon; ice tools are typically made with plastic, aluminum, steel, and sometimes even carbon fiber. With these more solid materials comes their own set of challenges for maintenance, with rust being the primary concern. To handle rust, there are a few options available, depending on the severity of the rust. First things first, if there are flakes of rust similar to that of a very, very old car that threatens the integrity of the tool; retire and recycle it. Or, better yet; hang it on the mantle and tell all your guests about the time you and your buddy nearly died except for that tool caught you both and pulled you out of the crevasse. Now, was it -40 degrees Celsius that night, ot -45? If the rust is minimal, then a good scrub with a wire brush should do the trick to remove the surface rust. From there, you’ll probably want to sharpen your tool with a single cut file, typically no coarser than Second (medium) cut. There are two ways to sharpen your picks & crampons, depending on the kind of movement you want to do. Sharper, narrower, more prominent angles at the tips allow for greater penetration of the ice, but wear out faster. Flater, wider, less prominent angles at the tips require more skill to penetrate the ice, but last longer, especially if you are mixed climbing on rock and ice. If you don’t use your tools multiple times a week, a light coating of oil or silicone grease helps prevent additional surface rust from accumulating in between uses. You’ve spent all season chasing ice, and (especially this year) have had a great time with fat condies and minimal avalanche hazard. Soon, it’ll be late spring, the ice is melting, and the rock is beckoning. Ideally, you’ve been fairly diligent about keeping up with the maintenance of your gear all season, so doing an end-of-season rust check & oil layer should be standard practice. A big part of keeping your tools in working order for the seasons to come is to ensure you loosen off all bolts, washers, nuts, and screws just a touch. By loosening the parts of your tools, you minimize the risk of the connective bits seizing, and causing your regular maintenance or replacement part installations to be far more troublesome than it should be. It also helps you see and engage with more of the tool, and to ensure all relevant parts of the tool have been scraped free of rust, and coated in a thin coat of oil or silicone grease prior to end of season storage.
Learn more10 tips to get you started climbing in the alpine
We are living in a time when it has never been easier to get into alpine climbing. With frequent courses and guided trips being run by guides across Canada, anybody can enjoy this sport. We, here at Vertical Addiction, have decided to come up with our top ten tips for getting into summer alpine climbing. Climbing is a much different sport than it was 100 years ago. These days, anyone can start climbing in the controlled environment of a gym, then move outside to the many accessible crags that seem to be popping up at an ever-increasing rate. Indeed, climbing has gone from a fringe activity to a widely accepted sport, which is definitely a good thing. However, this sport was born from mountaineering, there was a time when all climbing was alpine. For lots of folks, alpine climbing remains a scary prospect, however it is on the snowcapped peaks that some of the most rewarding climbing experiences are to be had. 1. Take a course Alpine climbing is much more complex than a trip to Grassi Lakes. This is a sport you cannot teach yourself by watching YouTube videos. When it comes to things like glacier travel, it is highly recommended that you take a course, or go with someone who is highly experienced and learn from them. Don’t forget about avalanche training. An AST1 is one of the best courses you can take! For your first alpine climb or two, be sure to have someone with alpine experience in your group, nothing is worse than getting up on a glacier before realizing that you and your buddy are in over your heads! 2. Take a look at your goals When you picture yourself alpine climbing, what do you see? Are you climbing granite splitters in the bugaboos? Are you trekking across the endless icy expanse of the Columbia Icefield? Are you scratching your way up an icy north face? Alpine climbing is a general term for many different types of climbing in the mountains. Realizing where your goals lie will help you direct your attention to the most appropriate type of training and learning that you need to do. 3. Get the right gear It would be foolish to attempt a steep mixed face with lightweight skimo gear in the same way it would be completely overkill to go rock climbing in the Bugs with technical ice gear in tow. Having the right gear for your climb will make your life a lot easier on route. Also consider the amount of gear your packing; having too much gear will just weigh you down, but having too little can leave you in a dangerous situation. New alpine climbers often bring too much gear, but soon they learn the benefits of a lighter pack. 4. Start early Once I witnessed some folks starting up the glacier on Athabasca as we were descending at 11:30 AM; they said they were hoping to climb the ramp route, which is threatened by lots of overhead hazard now baking in the sun. Early in the morning, the snow is more stable, loose rocks are frozen in place, and the snow is firm and easy to walk on. Starting early gives you lots of time to complete your objectives but it also allows you to avoid the hazards associated with the sun. Starting too late can leave you exposed to dangerous snow conditions and minimal time to complete the climb. 5. Don’t underestimate the sun The sun is a serious villain. It can easily ruin your trip. On glaciers the snow reflects the sun and it turns into a giant solar panel of doom, you will get some nasty sunburns if you don’t protect yourself. Your 15 SPF essential oil sunscreen can’t hold a candle to the power of the sun on snow. Use a high strength sweatproof sunscreen and apply it liberally. Also, because the sun's rays are reflecting up off the snow, apply sunscreen on the underside of your chin, nose, and nostrils. Try not to huff and puff gasping for air with your mouth open all day, a sunburn on the roof of your mouth is not fun, an easy solution to this is to train harder and shut your mouth. Wear glacier rated glasses with side shields, snow blindness will definitely ruin a climb. 6. Bail before things go south Turning your back to a climb can be pretty tough, but turning around is always a good choice. If you are on a climb, pay close attention to what’s going on around you. Constantly watch the sky for signs of incoming weather, pay attention to the snow conditions, and be aware of your own mental state. If you feel uneasy about something, talk it over with the other members of your group. If you want to go down for some reason, any good climbing partner will respect that. Don’t wait until the storm is upon you, or the mountain is falling down on you, or your too tired to carry on, turn around long before any of that has a chance to happen. 7. Pick your partners wisely The longer I climb, the shorter my list of partners gets. I could just be getting antisocial or more insufferable by the year, but I like to believe that I only like to climb with people who have a similar sense of safety. Don’t climb with people who don’t respect safety. If you're on a climb and have a bad feeling about it, the last thing you want is a partner who constantly ignores obvious warnings and just hopes it will get better. Don’t climb with people that brag about all their close calls in the mountains, there is probably a good reason they keep getting themselves into situations. And lastly, don’t climb with people you don’t like spending extended periods of time with, a big part of alpine climbing is the comradery between you and your partner, don’t ruin it by climbing with jerks. 8. Take the conditions into account Watch the conditions on your objective, ask around for current conditions. Make sure you have a decent idea of what you're getting yourself into. If the climb seems to be out of condition, maybe it’s time to think about other objectives, its not worth the risk just to tick a climb off your list. 9. Move at the speed of safety In the mountains, it is important to limit your exposure to risk. One way of doing this is simply moving as fast as you can. The key to moving fast in the mountains is consistency. Pick a pace that you won't have to stop to catch your breath a lot. Dial in your transitions and systems, this will save you lots of time over a long day. There is also something to be said for rushing too much. Only move as fast as you can with safety. It is very easy to slip or make a mistake when rushing. 10. Start Easy Coming from cragging, it can be easy to look at a grade like 5.9 A2 and think: “I warm-up on routes way harder than that, I’ll cruise up these routes”. In the mountains, the technical climbing isn't always the crux, you might have to contend with poor rock, bad gear, tricky routefinding, icy rock, and the lack of bail options. So just because you climb 5.13 doesn’t mean you can start out climbing hard alpine routes. Take it easy and work your way up. In the alpine, you should be very comfortable with dangerous climbing. Alpine climbing is often hard, scary, and downright unenjoyable, but it often leads to some of the most rewarding moments in a climber’s life. I believe every climber should try alpine climbing at least once in their climbing career, even if it's just to find out it's not your cup of tea. With the number of courses being run, it is very easy to educate yourself with the skills you’ll need to be safe in the mountains. A Few guiding companies offering mountaineering courses: Mountaineering is dangerous and posses inherent risk. It is your responsibility to seek proper instruction from qualified professionals to learn the necessary skills to participate in any of the activities described herein. The information found here is for entertainment and general information purposes only and does not constitute advice, nor is it intended to be.
Learn moreAvalanche Safety 101: Essential Gear & Why It Matters
Avalanche safety is essential for anyone venturing into the backcountry during the winter. Understanding avalanche risks and taking a safety course can help prevent dangerous situations. The three must-have safety tools include an avalanche beacon (to locate buried victims), a probe (to pinpoint their exact location), and a shovel (to dig them out). Snow study tools can further help assess avalanche risk, and airbags provide an extra layer of protection by keeping riders closer to the surface in an avalanche. Investing in high-quality gear from trusted brands and practicing with it is crucial. Preparedness and knowledge are key to staying safe while enjoying backcountry adventures. Avalanche Safety 101: Essential Gear & Why It Matters If you're new to backcountry skiing, snowboarding, or snowmobiling, you might be wondering why avalanche safety is such a big deal. The truth is, the backcountry is unpredictable, and avalanches can happen when you least expect them. But with the right gear and training, you can significantly increase your chances of staying safe. Let’s break down what you need to know and why avalanche safety gear is a must. Why Avalanche Safety Knowledge is Crucial Before even thinking about stepping into the backcountry, you need to understand avalanche risk. Avalanche safety isn’t just about carrying the right gear—it’s about knowing how to avoid dangerous terrain, recognize warning signs, and make smart decisions based on conditions. Taking an avalanche safety course (such as an Avalanche Skills Training course) is the best way to prepare yourself and ensure you can assess snow conditions properly. Must-Have Avalanche Safety Gear When traveling in avalanche terrain, you should never go without these three essential pieces of safety equipment: 1. Avalanche Beacon (Transceiver) An avalanche beacon (or transceiver) is a device that sends and receives signals, helping rescuers locate buried victims quickly. Everyone in your group should carry one and, most importantly, know how to use it properly. Without a beacon, finding someone buried in an avalanche is nearly impossible in a timely manner. 2. Probe A probe is a long, collapsible pole used to pinpoint the exact location of a buried person after their beacon signal is found. The faster you can locate a person, the better their chances of survival. 3. Shovel Once a buried person is located with the beacon and probe, you’ll need a shovel to dig them out. A lightweight, durable shovel is essential for quick and efficient rescue efforts. Snow Study Equipment: Understanding the Terrain For those serious about backcountry travel, snow study tools can help assess avalanche risk. Equipment like snow thermometers, slope meters, and snow saws allow skiers and snowboarders to gather valuable data on the stability of the snowpack, helping them make informed decisions about where and when to ride. Avalanche Airbags: A Smart Extra Layer of Protection In addition to the essential gear, avalanche airbags are an excellent investment for added safety. These backpacks contain an airbag system that inflates when triggered, helping you stay closer to the surface in an avalanche and reducing the risk of burial. While they don’t replace the need for a beacon, probe, and shovel, they can improve survival chances by keeping you from being completely buried under heavy snow. Choose Quality Gear & Get Proper Training When selecting avalanche safety equipment, quality matters. Trusted brands like BCA, Mammut, Black Diamond, G3, and Ortovox produce reliable, durable gear that can make all the difference in an emergency. But having the right equipment isn’t enough—you need to practice using it and take an avalanche safety course to develop the necessary skills. Be Prepared & Stay Safe Backcountry adventures are incredible, but safety should always come first. With the right knowledge, training, and gear, you can enjoy the mountains while minimizing risk. Shop our collection of avalanche safety gear online or visit us in-store at Vertical Addiction to get the best equipment for your next adventure.
Learn moreClimbing Shoe Anatomy: Understanding Key Design Features That Impact Your Climbing Experience
In this comprehensive guide, we'll dissect the anatomy of climbing shoes, exploring how each component affects your climbing experience and helping you make more informed decisions when selecting your next pair. The difference between sending your project and falling short often comes down to your footwear. While most climbers understand that climbing shoes are crucial for performance, fewer understand the specific design elements that make these specialized shoes work so effectively. The Foundation: Climbing Shoe Last and Profile Last Shape: The Hidden Architecture The last is the three-dimensional form around which a climbing shoe is built, fundamentally determining its shape and performance characteristics. Though invisible in the finished product, the last influences nearly every aspect of how a shoe performs. Types of Lasts: 1. Straight Last • Creates a symmetric shoe with even weight distribution• Provides all-day comfort for multipitch routes and crack climbing• Offers less precision on tiny footholds• Common in beginner and comfort-oriented models 2. Moderately Asymmetric Last • Shifts power toward the big toe• Balances comfort and performance• Enables precision without extreme discomfort• Ideal for technical face climbing and all-around performance 3. Highly Asymmetric Last • Dramatically focuses power to the big toe• Creates a precision tool for the smallest footholds• Sacrifices comfort for performance• Preferred for steep climbing and bouldering Many men's climbing shoes and women's climbing shoes differ in their last shapes to accommodate typical anatomical differences between male and female feet. Profile: The Curve That Defines Function A shoe's profile—how it curves from heel to toe—significantly impacts its specialized function. Profile Types: 1. Flat Profile • Keeps feet in a natural, relaxed position• Excels in crack climbing where jamming is essential• Provides comfort for extended wear• Offers less power on overhanging terrain 2. Moderate Downturn • Creates a slight hook shape• Enhances performance on vertical to slightly overhanging walls• Maintains reasonable comfort for longer sessions• Balances versatility and specialization 3. Aggressive Downturn • Forms a pronounced hook shape• Excels on steep, overhanging terrain• Focuses power through the toe• Sacrifices comfort for maximum performance on specific terrain For an understanding of how these profiles align with different stages of climbing development, see our article on Climbing Shoe Evolution: From Beginner to Advanced - When to Upgrade Your Footwear. The Exterior: Upper Construction Material Matters The upper material affects a shoe's stretch, breathability, and performance characteristics. Common Upper Materials: 1. Leather • Natural stretch (up to a full size)• Excellent breathability• Molds to foot shape over time• Less precise fit initially, but becomes custom-fitted with use 2. Synthetic • Minimal stretch (maintains original size)• Less breathability but easier to clean• Consistent performance throughout lifespan• Precise fit from day one that doesn't change significantly 3. Hybrid/Lined Leather • Moderate, controlled stretch• Balances comfort and precision• Combines breathability with structural stability• Offers predictable performance with some adaptation to foot shape Closure Systems: Securing the Fit How a climbing shoe closes affects convenience, adjustability, and performance. Closure Types: 1. Lace-Up • Provides precise adjustment along the entire foot• Allows zoning (tighter in some areas, looser in others)• Takes longer to put on and remove• Ideal for multipitch and trad climbing where fine-tuning is valuable 2. Velcro/Hook-and-Loop • Offers quick on/off convenience• Provides good adjustability across the midfoot• Perfect for bouldering and gym climbing with frequent transitions• Can create pressure points if poorly designed 3. Slip-On/Slipper • Maximizes sensitivity with minimal material• Relies on elastic for tension• Provides the most comfortable, sock-like feel• Excels in crack climbing and volume-dependent scenarios 4. Hybrid Systems • Combines elements of different closure types• Often pairs slip-on comfort with a single velcro strap for security• Balances convenience and adjustability• Growing in popularity for all-around performance shoes The Business End: Sole Construction Midsole: The Power Transfer Layer The midsole, sandwiched between the upper and outsole, determines a shoe's stiffness and support. Midsole Variables: 1. Thickness • Thicker midsoles (1.5-2mm) provide more support and edging power• Thinner midsoles (0.5-1mm) increase sensitivity and flexibility• Some shoes feature split-thickness midsoles for zoned performance 2. Materials • Traditional midsoles use varying densities of synthetic board• Modern designs incorporate materials like microfiber and thermoplastic• Some high-end models use composite materials for targeted flexibility/stiffness 3. Coverage • Full-length midsoles provide consistent support• 3/4 length midsoles enhance toe flexibility while supporting the arch• Some specialized shoes use partial midsoles in specific zones only Outsole: Where Rubber Meets Rock The outsole is perhaps the most visible and discussed component of climbing shoe design. Outsole Considerations: 1. Thickness • Thicker outsoles (4-5mm) prioritize durability and support• Medium outsoles (3-4mm) balance sensitivity and longevity• Thin outsoles (2-3mm) maximize feel and precision 2. Compound • Rubber formulation dramatically affects grip, durability, and performance• Ranges from ultra-sticky soft compounds to harder, more durable options For a detailed exploration of rubber compounds and their performance across different rock types, see our article on How Different Climbing Shoe Compounds Affect Performance on Various Rock Types. 1. Pattern • Most performance climbing shoes use a smooth outsole for maximum surface contact• Some approach-oriented models feature light tread patterns• Specialized indoor shoes may have textured areas for volume friction Specialized Features: The Performance Enhancers Toe Box Construction The toe box design dramatically influences precision and power transmission. Toe Box Variables: 1. Volume • Low-volume toe boxes suit narrow feet and precise pocket climbing• Medium-volume designs accommodate average proportions• High-volume options fit wider feet or provide room for comfort 2. Knuckle Position • Aggressive shoes position toes in a curled position for power• Moderate designs allow a gentle curl without extreme compression• Comfort-oriented shoes permit a more natural toe position 3. Toe Rubber • The placement and pattern of toe rubber affects toe hooking capability• Coverage ranges from minimal to full toe cap designs• Specialized patterns optimize grip for specific toe-hooking movements Heel Construction A well-designed heel is crucial for security during heel hooks and technical footwork. Heel Considerations: 1. Cup Shape • Deep heel cups provide maximum security but may cause fit issues• Shallow designs offer easier entry but less hook security• The specific shape must match your heel anatomy for optimal performance 2. Tensioning • Rand tension around the heel affects overall fit and performance• Slingshot rands actively pull the foot forward into the toe box• Tension distribution varies widely between models and brands 3. Rubber Coverage • The pattern and thickness of heel rubber impacts hooking ability• Cut-outs and seams can create weak points or enhance flexibility• Specialized designs incorporate texture or patterns for specific surfaces Rand System The rand—the rubber that wraps around the shoe's upper—is a critical component affecting performance and durability. Rand Elements: 1. Tension • Higher rand tension creates a more aggressive, performance-oriented fit• Lower tension offers more comfort and all-day wearability• Tension systems often work in concert with the closure to create the overall fit 2. Coverage • Full rand coverage provides maximum durability and performance• Partial rand designs can enhance flexibility in targeted areas• The rand's thickness varies strategically throughout the shoe 3. Toe Patch • Specialized rubber on the top of the toe box enhances toe scumming and bicycle moves• Varies from minimal to extensive coverage• Different textures optimize for specific movements and surfaces Specialized Designs for Specific Users Gender-Specific Design Many manufacturers create gender-specific designs to address anatomical differences. Women's Specific Features: • Narrower heel cups• Lower-volume forefoot• Higher arch support• Different heel-to-toe proportions Our collection of women's climbing shoes incorporates these anatomical considerations while maintaining performance standards. Youth-Specific Considerations Kids' climbing shoes incorporate special design elements for developing feet: • Kids' climbing shoes incorporate special design elements for developing feet:• Flatter lasts to accommodate growth• More padded collars for comfort• Slightly softer midsoles to prevent overuse injuries• Durable construction to withstand playground-style use between climbs Finding Your Perfect Fit Understanding climbing shoe anatomy allows you to make more informed choices when selecting your next pair. Consider: 1. Your Foot Shape • Wide vs. narrow forefoot• High vs. low arch• Heel dimensions and shape• Toe box requirements 2. Your Climbing Style • Preferred angle (slab, vertical, overhanging)• Typical rock type or climbing surface• Session length and comfort requirements• Specific technical needs (crack climbing, precision edging, etc.) 3. Your Performance Goals • Project difficulty• Training vs. sending shoes• Versatility vs. specialization• Budget and durability requirements Conclusion: Knowledge Enhances Performance The anatomy of a climbing shoe directly impacts your experience on the wall. By understanding how each design element affects performance, you can select shoes that complement your climbing style, foot shape, and performance goals. Remember that the "best" climbing shoe is highly individual—what works perfectly for one climber may be completely wrong for another. The climbing shoes we carry at Vertical Addiction span the full spectrum of designs, ensuring that every climber can find their perfect match. As you advance in your climbing journey, your understanding of these subtle design differences will grow, allowing you to make increasingly refined choices about your footwear. This knowledge, combined with developing technique, will help you maximize your performance potential on any climbing terrain.
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